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No. 1. Those were the days – stories of the past, present & future

We are a part of the story that began much before us

Parents are those chapters in our book, which have to close for the new chapters to continue, but the story began with them, and they are always there! Yes, we are a part of the story that began much before us!

— neera

No. 1. This is the first post on my new blog. I’m going to try to write what I always wanted to do, write a story, my story, our story. Being the wordy person in the family, there has always been a pressure on me, put by everyone in the family, especially my sister-in-law, our Manju dear, that I will write a history of our family, our parents, their lives, and the events that shaped them, and us. So here I am, just setting this new blog up, to do exactly that.

It is not a chronicled, a date and day type of history of what I have been told had happened, but what I imagine had happened, as it is my view of how and why certain things and events had happened. So, if you like such stories, stay tuned for more. Subscribe below to get notified when I post new updates. However, the posts need to be read in a chronological order, from the beginning to follow the story …

No. 38 Simla – the magic land ! A city of angles!

Simla College Building Credit Author 2022

Farishton ki nagari mei mein aa gaya hun!

I have landed in the city of angels!

This was the song, filling the atmosphere, when the family had arrived in Simla in 1969.

Everything in this beautiful hill station was touched by magic. Especially for the little girl, it was a magical land, heavenly, a land fit for angels!

yes, I have landed in the city of angels!!

The little girl would have heard it!

Her older brother was playing the tune on his flute!! Mesmerising!!

The younger brother was humming it. Enchanting!

And Biji was singing it.

And the little girl, she was listening to it, in everything, the bluest possible sky, trimmed with the greenest ever, hills, and majestic trees that she had never seen from such up close! And the weather, it was just wonderful!

In the month of July when other places they had lived in would be steaming hot, humid and warm, Simla weather was perfect, not hot, a bit cool, and pleasant. And soon rains will come glowing clouds coming down, creating a foggy misty atmosphere after each rain, making everything mysteriously romantic.

A scenery set for angels and fairies to appear.

Yes, Simla was a magical heavenly place where angels lived.

Farishton ki nagari!

Being in Simla, those days, when it was Simla, and not Shimla in 1960s and 70s, was actually an experience, of being in a magic land!

Their older brother had already been in Simla, doing medicine. He had moved from Nahan to do his MBBS, in 1968, when the first medical college of Himachal had opened in Simla.

And since then, he had adopted Simla as his own town. It was ‘his turf’, as he knew every inch of every place, every person in Simla.

And he took them everywhere. His younger brother and little sister, who would walk around with their mouths wide open with amazement.

The restaurants on the mall road, one after the other, a row of beautiful boutique shops with the things, they had never seen, tasted, or felt in their whole life.

They had arrived there straight from Una, the most backward place in Himachal at that time. And, Simla had been the most advanced, the queen of hill stations, the summer destination for the rich and the affluent. It had been the Summer capital of India during the British time, and after independence, it had kept all its galore, historical artefacts, and a very English mannerism, intact. For a while it had been a part of Punjab, but now it was in Himachal, where it belonged, a hilly station, in the hills.

Simla hadn’t lost its British impact, most of which was good, a few things, that hadn’t been good, were gone!

During the Raj, Indians were not allowed to walk on the Mall road, or go to any cafe, or a restaurant which were meant for the Gore people, and all the black fells (a word I’ve learnt in Australia, for the native people), had to stay away and go to the lower or the middle bazar.

Now people were all free to roam around, go to any shop on the Mall Road, go to any restaurant or a cafe, provided they had money on them, something that hadn’t been the case.

Simla was a tiered town. Before independence, the Ridge and the Mall road were mainly for the British officers, their families, and their friends, and then the lower and the middle bazar for the Indians, it had a variety of shops, and houses for the shop keepers, their workers, and other locals.

The Middle Bazar was a place, where even during the British Raj, Indians could roam freely. It had a few shops, mainly tailoring shops, a couple of temples, a mosque, a few eateries, and mainly it held, accounting offices for the rich and the clerks, the Babus, who worked in these offices, and might have lived there, along with many shop owners, and other business people.

There were the little doll houses attached to the offices and shops, with long steep rows of stairs snaking in and out, and the small windows facing the setting sun, and looking right into the lower bazar!

A quite congested place, with cobbled streets, a heaven for food, sweets, cheap clothes, shoes, woollens, and then the sabzi mandi for fresh fruit, and vegetables, and the hidden meat market.

The sabzi mandi was actually quite close to the bus stand on the cart road, and then down there was the Western command, the military area, and then was the Railway station. Close to the bus stand was a cinema, frequented by people who worked in shops, coolies or who rowed hand-pulled rickshaws. Luckily, the little girl never sat on one, as she always thought of these big bulky Afghans as “Kabuli Wala” from Rabindra Nath Tagore’s famous story, which had been released as a film, and she had seen it a couple of times.

If you went past the Ridge, on the way to the college, there was the Lakkar bazar, the paradise of wooden material, any type you can think of, walking sticks, wall decorations, trays, rolling pins, to key rings, toys, tables, and trinkets of every kind. As well as many Kashmiri shops full of pashmina wool and wooden artefacts from Kashmir, as well as Pashtun vendors selling dry fruit and nuts, and Tibetan shops selling exotic spices and religious books, rosaries, and encrusted brass mirrors, book covers etc.

It was a strange land, Simla, an amalgam of so many cultures, and times. The Himachali people, many migrants from Punjab and U.P. Then the Chinese, and the Tibetans, with a sparse sprinkling of Anglo-christians those left from the Raj time, teaching music, or running schools affiliated to different churches.

And then those in government and Military positions, coming and going, and seasonal tourists from all over India, and then, film crews, stars frequented Simla for shooting romantic scenes, making Simla a real happening place.

Each landmark had a story attached to it, some real, some rumours, which with time started to be treated like historic truths.

There were three old beauties, the cinemas, Regal, Ritz and Rivoli, along with a couple of Theatres, clubs, reminiscing old times. Then a variety of schools, the DAV, convent and government schools, catering to the needs of different classes of Simla society.

There was a majestic church on the ridge itself, a Hanuman temple on the Jakhu hill, overlooking Simla, a gurudwara near the bus stand, a mosque and a few temples in the middle bazar, and a Bengali temple on one sie of the Mall, beyond the post office, a historic place. All these places were appeasing to different gods and goddesses, but praying to just one super power. That’s what the little girl and her brothers believed and would bow their heads whatever place they would be crossing.

Once in Simla, life had completely changed for the whole family, but for the little girl with her prolific imagination, more so.

For a start, their house, didn’t look like any other house they had ever lived. Beautiful, like from a story book, strange but also familiar, and she felt, as if she had been there in a dream. Big Bay windows, an ivy clad exterior, a wooden balcony, a fireplace, old colonial furniture that came with the house, and splashes of their own meagre belongings, in comparison.

The principle’s residence was a part of the college, that itself was a grand colonial style 1850s building, with high ceilings adorned with chandeliers, big ceiling high windows, and ivy covered walls, and big majestic staircase going down to the carpet covered foyer, long corridors, and a huge covered veranda with big carved wooden double doors which might have been a perfect place to host a party, when the building must have belonged to a British officer. In a more recent past, perhaps since the independence, it had been a teacher training college for women, and now it was the first government degree college of Simla.

There was a wooden balcony jutting out from the upper story, where all the bedrooms were, and there was also a beautiful sitting area with colonial furniture and a fire place, where the family enjoyed the luxury of the afternoon tea served by the well trained staff.

There were a few workers attached to this abode, a staff to maintain and run this huge complex, a cook, and two maids, especially attached to the principal’s residence, all involved in making theirs, and especially Biji’s life comfortable. She was pregnant and had become really weak, and was mostly, indisposed. She was glad to have these caring women around her.

They called her memsahib and the little girl was miss sahib, titles which knowing the connotations of the colonial impact, later in her life, she was going to detest, but at that stage, she loved being Miss Sahib.

Each day, once the college time was over and classes were finished, the whole college area became their palace!

And the girl would roam around making up stories, pretending to be the princess living in a castle with a host of her ladies in attendance, her imaginary friends. She continued to have long conversations with them, and then found a store of books in the beautiful library, where she could hide for hours.

Otherwise, it was actually quite lonely being the only girl, of the only family, living in this far off, huge castle like, lonely building. Later a couple of lecturers and an admin officer also joined them, as there were many spare rooms in the building to accommodate those who had moved to Simla without their families, or were single. Though, there being no other families, there were no children there.

The only time she interacted with girls her age was at the school. But as usual, being at a new school and getting adjusted to the new environment, was still a struggle for her. But after a few weeks, things were to change, and she was going to make a few friends, creating relations outside her known circle of people not related to the college staff. But that would come later after a terrible incident.

Most evenings Papaji would meet them on the mall road, as he would have gone there for a meeting or a conference, with the education minister, or education secretary or the director of education.

There was a talk of a new university being opened in Simla, Himachal’s first university, and he was the preferred candidate to take this venture in his capable hands.

Career wise, age wise, and otherwise, he was at the top, that year!

After a couple of rounds of the mall road, sometimes stopping for a coffee or a pastry from the Trishool Bakery, they would trek back to the college, which was a fare walk of at least 40 minutes. The little girl would be tired, ready to sleep. But Biji would insist everyone to have dinner, once home.

As, there would be a hot meal that the cook would have left in the oven, which worked as a hot case, and the whole family would sit over their dinner, enjoying stories, and jokes cracked by Papaji and their older brother, who were both great story tellers.

Feeling tired, but with a sweet smile on her face, trying to keep the thoughts of her school next day at bay, the little girl will bid goodnight to her parents, and climb up in her cosy bed, ready to dream and draw, some sketches for imaginary stories.

And when everything was going so well, disaster was to strike.

An accident.

A Punjab Roadways bus, going from Simla to Chandigarh, would fall from the road down the hill, near Tara Devi, which is approximately 8 kilometres from Simla bus stand.

And Papaji would be on it, on his way to attend a meeting in Chandigarh.

37. Chandigarh: a city with no past!

Photo by Guriqbal Billing on Pexels.com

For all those years, when the kids were growing up in Himachal, the transitory nature of their life didn’t allow them to stay at any one place for longer than two or at the most three years. Their father, Principal Ram Murti Sharma would get transferred after every couple of years, so, their connection with any of the towns in Himachal, didn’t develop.

One place, however, remained a constant feature in their lives, Chandigarh. It was not in Himachal, but was the only stable place in their otherwise nomadic life in Himachal. Due to their grandparents being there, they visited Chandigarh, quite regularly, every year, and sometimes a few times, as every holiday, every family occasion, every event, they had to be there.

Yes, Chandigarh had been a witness to it all. Whatever, the family went through, good times, not so good times, no matter, where ever their father was posted in Himachal, they had a constant connection with this town, like an ancestral city.

And not only their family, Chandigarh had played that part for so many Indians. As when after the partition of India, people had to move away from where they had lived for generations in undivided India, no place in the divided country was going to be enough, ticking all the boxes for them.

Many Indians who had lived in West Punjab which was now in Pakistan, had moved to Delhi, or other places in East Punjab, or many of them, just like the girl’s father, Murti, had taken this move as an opportunity to try out other parts of India, such as Himachal.

Then, for most of these people, who had chosen Himachal for work, Himachal couldn’t become a home. It was a place where they went to work while, home was somewhere else. Moreover, not being originally from Himachal, they would never become a Bilaspuriya, or Mandayal, they couldn’t belong there, as they were always going to be Punjabies, or ‘Punajabiyas’, having a different culture, different language, different history, a different past.

Chandigarh was different.

Created to be the capital of Punjab, it was a completely new place, a town or a city, which had no history, no past. It was neither in Punjab, nor in Himachal, a much more cosmopolitan place where everyone could belong, as no one actually did.

Hence it was going to be their preferred place, where they could again start their stories on a blank slate.

Yes, Chandigarh was one city in India, with no bloody past.

It was one of the newly created, modern cities, of independent India. After the partition, and the independence of the country, many such cities were being created in India, which were modern, well planned, and well equipped to hold the influx of Indians on the move, as well as to accommodate the increasing population of India.

Hence, Chandigarh turned out to be that place where people could build a house to settle down. Mostly people who worked in Himachal ended up, building a house, or buying a flat in Chandigarh after retirement. There had been some issue of its water being contaminated, and that it gave people a disease of increased goitre, but that turned out to be a hoax.

Chandigarh was well situated between Himachal and Punjab, and it was also not far from New Delhi. And later, in 1966, when another new state, Haryana was created, Chandigarh became a perfect centre for these two North Indian states, Punjab and Haryana. It was then to become the capital of both these states, while retaining its independent status of being a union Territory.

With many government offices, and businesses moving there, Chandigarh was to soon become a centre of activity. It became an education hub too, with the Indian Punjab University, an Engineering college, and an advanced medical institute , an arts centre, radio station, and soon, major newspapers started their offices there. People, attracted by its well planned sectors, wide streets and roads and roundabouts, gardens and parks, and a beautiful Sukhna lake, rushed to take jobs, buy houses, there, or when that got exhausted, to its two wings, Panchkoola, or Mohali,

In early 1950s, when the foundation for this new, most modern and planned city, was being laid, the little girls’s maternal great grandparents, who had not found a place to their liking in new India, had decided to move there.

Just like so many Indians, who had left their homeland, after the partition, and were looking for such a place to call home, Chandigarh was to become that place for them. After the partition, Mataji and Pitaji, the girl’s grandparents, had gone to Meerut, after leaving Kashmir, and then they had moved to Muktsir for a few years, but they still had not chosen a place to call home in the new India.

Mataji’s father, Dr Talvar made that decision for them. After leaving Lahore, he had not found any place to his taste, so when Chandigarh was being planned to be constructed, he invested some money in buying a few plots there, and then he invited some of his relatives, and his daughters to come and build houses in Chandigarh.

Mataji and Pitaji decided to do so, and they built a house very close to Mataji’s parents’ house in sector 22. one of the first sectors to be built, Bhabhoji’s sister had already built a house next door to them. Then, in the same street, when a corner plot came on sale, Ram Murti was advised to buy it. He ended up building a house there, which was completed in 1957, and his parents moved to Chandigarh, from the village. Murti had always wanted his parents to leave their village in Punjab, and be closer to Himachal.

Hence, Chandigarh was like an ancestral city, as their both sets of grandparents lived there. It was therefore, also to remain a holiday destination for years to come. Every holiday, the kids had come to spend a few days, or sometimes a few weeks, in Chandigarh staying at their grandparents’ houses.

There were some other relatives too, other than their grandparents, from both sides of their family, who lived there. Mainly, from Biji’s uncles and aunties, cousins from maternal or paternal families. Their two uncles, Biji’s younger brothers, Jitender and Virender Soni had both joined Indian Air Force, Mataji could never forget what IAF had done to save her daughters at the time of Kashmir riots in 1947. Her own younger brother, Chenni, had also been in IAF, and presumably, he had encouraged and helped the young Soni men to join Air Force.

Later, Dutt, and Nanaji, Biji’s older sister and family, moved to Chandigarh. Sector 14, Punjab University. Since the sisters were so close, they used to meet quite often, the kids also became quite close.

Especially for the little girl, not having a sister, always drew her to cousins. Actually all the cousins from all the sisters, they formed a great bond of kinship and sisterhood.

And chandigaeh was a great meeting point.

So, when ever, the kids had a holiday, or a family wedding, or just when there was a chance to go with their father if he had a meeting there, they would end up in Chandigarh. Their cousins, Biji’s sisters’ children would be there too, visiting Mataji and Pitaji, hence, adding more attraction to spending holidays in Chandigarh, 22 sector!

Sometimes, Papaji was in Chandigarh with them, he would take the kids to the Quality’s Restaurant or to Ahroma hotel, for afternoon or, evening tea, which was such a great experience.

Papaji couldn’t spend all this time away from his college, so it would be the kids mainly, the little girl, and her brothers, and for a few days their Biji, who would spend their entire holiday there, dividing their days and nights, in between the two households.

Both houses, in the same sector, 22, were very near to each other, almost on two corners of the same street, with a small open area in between, where each morning the green grocer would set up his make shift shop, just for the morning, selling fresh produce, straight from the mandi, the whole sale market, and where both grandmothers would come to buy what they needed for the day, the usual routine, as there were no fridges at that time. And it would be decided there and then, where the kids would eat lunch, or dinner.

They were allowed to stay where ever they wanted, but they had to eat dinner and the breakfast at the house where they were going to stay the night, and mostly, it was at their Bibbee’s house. They enjoyed having lunch at their Mataji, their maternal grandmother’s house, where their cousins would also congregate.

Biji’s sisters would come each holidays with their children and while the mothers would sit and talk or play cards, all the cousins would get together and play for the whole summer afternoons, and when the sun would be going down and it was not so hot, they would all get out on the streets, and the little park adjacent to their house.

That was the time when all the street vendors would come for their daily business, on carts, rairhies and cycles. selling household goods, toys and mainly street food, such as golgappe and tikki walla, or kulfi wallah, the homemade icecream on sticks, and the buddhi mai ka jhatta, the old woman’s tangled hair, a funny and such an apt name for candy floss, and gutta, the rubbery edible gum twisted into different shapes.

One of the cousins, the little girl’s massi’s daughter, who used to come from Delhi for the vacation, still remembers those days, ….

“It used to be a blast! Those memories are so fresh in my mind… I distinctly remember kulfi walla and gutte wala who used to make peacocks and telephones out of sweet gutta.,, hand churned mango ice cream near Kiran Cinema…wish those days would come back.”

But yes, those days will not come back. Though they are engaraved in their memory for ever!

At nights, mostly the girl and her brother stayed at Bibbee’s house, their paternal grandparents’ house. Bibbee told them many stories, and they also got to spend time with their Babbaji, their grandfather, who was the softest man, they had come across ever. When they would come, he would cry, and when they would be leaving after spending a few days with them, he would cry!

He didn’t ever scold them, about anything. There was nothing he didn’t approve, even reading stories when they were supposed to be asleep, and he was so proud of them, when they would be reading their books, even story books, it didn’t matter, what they read, as long as they were reading, he was happy. He wanted them to study, and become someone, like he always said, “These kids, they just study like Ram Murti, so clever, so intelligent, they will go for much higher study than anyone in the family”!

And he was right.

All the three kids would finish higher studies, and the little girl, and her younger brother would end up coming to Chandigarh itself to attend their respective higher education institutes to do further studies, but unfortunately Babbaji was no more by then.

The house in sector 22, in Chandigarh, would continue to be their favourite place and Bibbee would keep holding her court there, as relatives travelling from the village, or from other parts of Punjab would drop by, to do some official business, or for some other personal reasons. Encouraged by the fact, that they had a place to stay, to sleep, and to have meals, they would choose to come to Chandigarh for spending a day or two, there.

After her graduation, the girl, when she was not little anymore, would come to Chandigarh to do her Masters in English at the Punjab University, staying at the university hostel with her friend, for ever, Sweetie, and tasting the city life. They would also meet Komal, a friend, the besty, a friend for life, making Chandigarh such a special place for one more of the many reasons.

And then she would even get married in Chandigarh, and the ceremony would take place in the same sector 22 park, where she had spent many winter afternoons and summer evenings, playing with her cousins and other kids.

However, that would happen a few years later!

A time was coming when her childhood dreams would come true!

But before that the upheavals in their lives, which would shake them up for ever, the accident, the fire, the loss of everything that a family works for, and a loss of life, would leave a lifelong impact on everyone!

And Chandigarh would be witness to it all!!

No 36. Una, the story of a town, that at heart was a village, actually!

Una was the newest town of Himachal, where, Principal R. M. Sharma, the girl’s father was transferred from Nahan in 1969.

Situated at the doorway to the land of the seven goddesses, Chintpurni, and other different forms of Mata Rani, in Kangra district of Himachal, Una had been a part of Punjab till 1966, where, it had been an insignificant place, a place, that you cross on the way somewhere.

Una, in Punjabi language also means, una, something small, and, insignificant. And yes, it had been that in Punjab, but in Himachal, it was going to be much more than what it was. It would actually grow up, from being a backward neglected village or Tehsil, to finally becoming a district in a few years’ time.

The idea of opening a college in Una, must have been a step towards that growth, but when the girl’s father arrived in July, 1969, to open a college in Una, he had a steep ride up, as there was not much other than just a building for the college. The building itself, donated by the local DAV school, was not equipped for this purpose, nor did it have any adequate accommodation for the principal or his staff to stay. Everything had to be started from scratch.

Well, the day the family arrived in Una from Nahan, travelling via Chandigarh, the welcome they received there, jolted all of their senses. It was the beginning of July, and Una was hot like an oven, and humid too, as the monsoons were around the corner.

The kids had never experienced such heat in their lives. It was so hot that it almost dazed them. There were no mountains around to bring in the cool air, as had been the case in Mandi and Bilaspur, nor was there any river close by to cool down the atmosphere in the afternoons.

Una’s only river, called Swan, was a seasonal rivulet, and would either overflow due to the monsoon rains, breeding mosquitos, and other terrifying bugs, or its gritty surroundings covered with sand and hard pebbles, instead of the grassy knolls they had in other Himachal towns, would be burning naked under the harsh summer sun.

Una was a very different place too, as it was just a small, rustic, village, with no facilities, that they had been used to. Electricity, was there, but limited to the ceiling lights and just one or two fans in the whole building, no running water in the bathrooms, instead there was a big water well, a real one, with its own roof, to bathe there, and to get drinking water from.

There were no street lights, actually no streets, in the area, where the college was. There was a big ground in front. with farms and khets smaller agricultural pieces of land, all around. There were also many trees acacia, peepal, neem, and some fruit bearing trees, such as mangoes, guavas, and loquats, which also meant flies, and wasps and stinging honey bees in abundance, all year around.

The main Una town was across the Swan rivulet, which flowed heavily in Monsoons, but was otherwise quite dry. There was no bridge so people would just use some big rocks, and pebbles to cross it. And that is how the students and locals started to come to college from the town, on their cycles, braving the flow of the monsoon water, and in hoards did they come to check on the new arrivals.

Even when the college had still not opened, students, mainly boys, from the town and the nearby farms would arrive early morning, and park their cycles in the ground, and sit their staring at the building from the front ground, waiting for the opening of the college, which was still a few weeks away. This building was also the principal, and his staff, and their families’ temporary accommodation for the next few months.

So, the families would get up very early, as they all had to quickly finish their morning routine and have breakfast, before the students arrived. As once they did, there was no privacy. The students would sit around gazing at the building, just waiting for anyone to open a door, or a window, and they would start asking questions about when the classes would start, where were the teachers coming from, and were the books available in the college, was there a uniform for the students, or sometimes asking, if they could bring sugar cane juice, and mangoes for the principal and his family.

Sometimes, baskets full of fruit and other stuff, such as ghee, homemade clarified butter, maze or wheat flour, lemon and mango pickles, and fresh corn cobs, to be roasted along with the green chickpeas, would be brought as a homage to their teachers.

The generosity and love these people, the students and many families from Una showered on them, to some extent started to thaw the hearts of the kids and their mother, Biji, who had not wanted to stay in Una.

At one stage, before coming to Una, there had been a talk of the kids with their Biji going to live in Chandigarh, to study and stay there, but then this proposal was abandoned, and the family got immersed in the life of this town. They had jokingly started to call Una, as U.N.A. a pun on UNO, the United Nations Organisation.

First thing that helped the little girl was seeing her pet dog Lucy in Una, as it had arrived with their luggage from Nahan, and was there to greet her. Then having a few people there, whom the family had known from their Nahan days, was comforting.

Also, they were all staying together in the building, their favourite auntie, Mrs Bhardwaj, and her husband, whose company the whole family enjoyed, and a couple of other staff members, were known to them, as they had also been transferred from Nahan.

On one side of the college building which led to the Swan, and the town, there was another well, with an open bathing area around, just for men, and then a huge banyan tree, and close to it was the famous Kashmiri’s tea stall or the canteen, run by a very generous, and loving man from a nearby village, Pandit Kashmiri Lal. He organised their breakfast every morning, getting milk, bread, sweet buns and butter etc for the family, as there was no kitchen or a fridge in the college building. Some mornings, they just had mangoes and lassi, the fresh butter milk for breakfast.

Their lunch and dinner would arrive on time, lunch at 12 pm, and dinner at 7 pm, all vegetarian, from the DAV hostel’s community kitchen. Mr Soni, who was the principal of the DAV school, also supervised the dining arrangements at the school hostel, and was soon to become close to the family. Especially as his family name was the same as Biji’s maiden name, Soni, he started to call Biji, Bhenji, his sister.

Then a few people, from the town, also became family friends, who would regularly come and meet their father and mother, and also invite them to their homes. Meeting these local people, visiting their houses, enjoying their hospitality, and witnessing their lifestyles, in which animals and birds were very much a part of the family, played a great part in giving the children an exposure to another way of living.

And not only the people of Una, but the very terrain of this place was rugged and interesting, which exposed them to those aspects of both human and nonhuman lives they had not experienced before. The rustic, sort of simple, direct and honest daily routine life in Una, thus showed them, a different aspect of life.

Una was an ancient town too, with quite beautiful features, which had faded with time, or depleted due to neglect. There were almost 200 steps from the bank of the Swan to the main street in the town, but on both sides of these steps, which were as wide as the street they were leading to, there were beautiful old-style houses, a couple of ancient temples, and a few antique shops. All these buildings, including the steps, and the streets of the town were made of burnt orange stone, which all shone like burnished gold in the afternoon sun, especially in winter. A real ‘heat and dust’ atmosphere, which could inspire someone to write a novel or poetry about this ancient, and forgotten town.

Even though, Una was a town, still at heart, Una was just a village, quite rustic, rough and crude, though underneath its rough edges, if you cared enough to look deeper, was its warmth, its simplicity, and love, and maybe this resonated something in the girl’s father, RM Sharma. Born in a village in Punjab, where he had spent the first 16 years of his life, he felt so much at home in Una. The simplicity, informal attire, and mannerism of people in Una with no artificial formality suited his own simple and no-nonsense nature.

The wide and open vistas of this place offered a simple, rural and rustic life style, with the things and the activities that he always enjoyed. With farms all around, there was fresh air, and fresh food available all the time, fruit, vegetables, all grown locally, and fresh milk, plenty of white butter, clotted cream, paneer, and lassi every day.

Being in this rural area, so different from the hilly towns that the kids were used to living in, the girl and her brother were fascinated by such a different terrain. So, the whole day was spent in exploring the surroundings, though one could only venture out either early morning, or then after 5 or 6 pm.

They were always welcome in all the neighbouring farms and khets, and everyone knew them. That is where they saw for the first time, how gur or jaggery was made from sugarcane juice, and then also saw an oil mill, being turned by a bored ox, with its eyes closed, going round and round on a rope attached to the pulley, and the pure mustard oil gushing out of the mill like melted gold.

They found out a lot about these farmers’ lives. How they lived, worked, and their relationships with their land and animals. There was one farmer lady, Veeranwali, meaning, a girl with many brothers, who became quite friendly with them.

Veeranwali was not married, and she lived with her brothers’ families, who all lived together, and worked in the same farm, their family farm. Maybe the family property had been the reason why she was not encouraged to get married.

Veeranwali liked children, and would always look out for the girl, her brother and Lucy. She would offer them cold water or something to eat with a glass of lassi, milk or a glass of tea in winter, and they would sit under a tree in her farm to take rest.

Luckily, Lucy didn’t bark at people, or farm animals, and she even didn’t run after strangers walking around. But she couldn’t tolerate someone riding a bike, while in the vicinity of the principal’s kothi, they had to get down and walk with their cycle to be spared; and the Sadhus, the people wandering around in orange robes, were also her target. There used to be quite a few of these sadhus actually, loitering around in and out of the vegetation growing wildly all around that area, for some reason (later the girl found out what these sadhus were after in the grass, it was the herb, cabana/bhang). Lucy would chase them making them run for their lives.

Nobody could disobey her rules, as Lucy, known as the principal’s dog, was the queen of the neighbourhood.

Once there was a movie shooting in Una, near the Swan, on its famous historic steps, where they were filming the love story of the two famous star-crossed lovers, Laila and Majnu. Everyone and their dog (just an idiom) with their cycle was there to watch the shooting, and Lucy also came with the girl and her brother, and when she saw a sadhu, someone in an orange robe, going up and down the stairs, she went crazy, and started to bark and then chased the poor man, who was actually the hero of the movie, acting as an ascetic, a jogi, who had abandoned the world, for his lost beloved, Laila. (The movie was actually Heer Ranjha, based on another tragic couple, Heer and her lover Ranjha, who had also become a jogi, when they couldn’t get together).

It turned out to be quite a big racket, with the hero running, and Lucy barking behind him, with everyone shouting and the heroine screaming, but before anyone could chase Lucy away or hurt her in any way, the little girl took Lucy with her, and went home, and she thus missed the shooting, though later on her brother who had taken some photos of the hero and the heroine, filled her in.

But, yes, she had to leave, as she couldn’t stay without Lucy, and couldn’t let Lucy go away without her, just like Mary and her lamb in the song, ‘Mary had a little lamb’, they were inseparable. Her brothers used to tease her calling her Lucy ki Poonchi, attached to Lucy like a tail, and vice versa.

She did not feel alone, when she had Lucy with her, though it was quite lonely for her in Una, as her brothers, immersed in their own lives, had little time for her. Her younger brother, who was in Una was too occupied in his college life, enjoying his pre -university classes at this co-ed college. He was also very good in his studies, and sang really well, so he was quite popular and had many new friends. With his new hobby, photography and a new camera, he was out to conquer the world. Their older brother was in Simla doing medicine, and was not even in Una, so, the girl had to make her own stories.

She had started enjoying long walks by herself, a habit to stay with her all her life, thinking, making up stories, or singing, and talking to Lucy, who at least at that time was with her.

She didn’t have any friends in Una, especially outside the school, no one to play with, talk or walk with her, as most of the students in her school either lived in the town, or came from the neighbouring farms and villages. And the college area, where she lived, was quite far from the town and the school, and there were no children around, that she could befriend.

At her school too, she was having a tough time settling down. Being from a very different background to most of other girls in school, she just didn’t fit in, especially the way how she spoke, and even how she dressed, it was so different from the local students, and teachers.

Most students spoke a different dialect of Punjabi, that she was not used to, and couldn’t speak. She was also not used to speaking in Punjabi at school, as in Himachal, she had to learn Pahari style Hindi, and that is what she spoke, she tried to speak in Punjabi, but the students in Una found that funny.

She also knew many words in English and used them, but the teachers hardly used English and very little Hindi, and that too only while teaching. Her drawing teacher, however was different, she spoke in Hindi and she also dressed differently, wearing a cotton sari, so different from the shalwar kameez wearing big bulky chunni clad bhenjies, female teachers. So, soon she was to become the girl’s favourite and she looked forward to her classes. her drawing also improved, and she started to make quite good water colour paintings and sketches, something she continued to do for many years.

In the lunch break, their peon, Darshan, would bring hot lunch for her, and also that fascinated her classmates, and then the girl decided to sit with all other students under a big banyan tree, and share her meal with her friends. That changed their attitude a bit. They also offered her some of their food, their maze flour roti and gal gal (kind of lemon) pickles, so different from her paronthies, or Kadi chawal, but quite delicious.

The biggest change, however came, when one day, she was asked to supervise a class when their teacher was absent, and the girl kept the class entranced for the whole period, drawing funny things on the board, and telling them a story (something she was good at, and which would always help her win people over).

Maybe that time, she told them the story of a dark queen, her white palace, and a tank full of red water, and a beautiful woman in a white sari who was thrown by the queen and her cronies into the water, and how a little girl, who was a fairy had quickly jumped in to save her, and then they both flew away. The whole class sat there mesmerised, and she became their favourite from then on.

In the college too, they had started to play badminton, and soon, along with the college students who would come back to play in the afternoons, the whole family also got involved, though Biji stopped playing after a while. The little girl and her brother loved badminton, and also enjoyed a chance to play with their parents, who had been champions of this game.

And then, right when she was settling in, things started to change. Biji got sick, and the atmosphere in their house became quite strained. Biji had never been so quiet and depressed, and seeing her that way, depressed her a lot.

There was also some tension and the girl couldn’t understand what was happening. Her brother was involved in his studies, and friends, and photography, but she being a girl felt really close to her Biji, and became very sad for her, as she had become very weak, and was bed ridden for a while.

Then, one day, Biji told her, that she was pregnant, and that soon there will be a baby in the family, and the girl was quite surprised, as she had been dreading something very serious, so she was relieved, and happy too, as she had always wanted a younger sibling, a sister, especially, if she could ask for it. She started to spend more time at home, keeping her mother company, entertaining her, telling her funny things, that had ‘suchi muchi, really happened’ to her on her way to school, to make her laugh, and she also started helping her in her household chores after school.

Their grandmother, Biji’s Mataji came to visit them and then stayed for a few weeks to take care of Biji, and then her uncle, Biji’s brother Virender Soni came for a holiday, as he usually did, from his Air Force job, and ended up spending almost a month with them, and all these slowly changed the atmosphere around the house.

Veer Mamaji was a very handsome man and quite charming too, so he was always quite popular among female lecturers and students. He ended up befriending a couple of young both male and female lecturers and a few senior students, from the college and the days and evenings became quite interesting. They had impromptu parties, and dinners at their place, and would also be invited to others’ houses, and their badminton matches and singing parties made the place come to life.

One of the lecturers had a car, and another family friend had a jeep, so sometimes, all of them would get in and drive away to the surrounding picnic spots, or to different farms where they would walk around, have picnics, and enjoy fresh sugar cane juice, and eat freshly made gur, stuffed with spices and nuts.

They would also go to Nangal, sometimes, which was just a 60-minute drive, for a different experience, as Nangal had all the facilities and features of a city that Una had lacked.

May be its location had been the reason for Una being backward, as it was in between and not too far from the two important cities of Punjab, Hoshiarpur and Nangal, where everything was available.

Nangal had a cinema, a few restaurants, and showrooms for different things, clothes, shoes, jewellery and cars. In comparison to Una’s rustic bazar, where one could buy everything in one shop, the groceries, and clothes, for men or women, uniforms, shoes, as well as, and even books and magazines, all sold in one shop, Nangal was a paradise.

Especially one item that the little girl had started to use, as a kohl eyeliner, instead of Biji’s homemade surma, or kajal, was certainly not available in Una, where you could by some make up articles, Afghan snow or face powder, or bright red nail polish, that none of them had any use of.

Hoshiarpur which was also not too far, but was on the other side, had some significance for the family, as Papaji had some property there, but none of them, at least the children never visited the place, but Nangal was a regular spot to go once every month at least. A couple of times they went to Chandigarh from Una too.

And once, the whole family went to Delhi to attend the wedding of Biji’s brother, Jitender Soni, who was also in Indian Air Force.

The young girl, he got married to was the most beautiful bride, and the function of this wedding was one of the most memorable events in their tender minds.

All the relatives had gathered there and the little girl still remembers all the fun she had spending time with her favourite cousin sister, dressing up for the wedding function, dancing in the wedding procession, and then also crying with the bride at the time of her viaddai, her departure from her parents’ side to her new husband’s car. Their cousins all made fun of the girls, saying, “but she is coming with us, why are you crying?” and she didn’t know what to say.

Then another thing that she remembers they all had fun with, was drinking numberless chilled Coca-Cola bottles at the wedding, enjoying this new drink to their fill.

After that, their day trips to Nangal, to do their shopping etc, had, always included drinking coca cola, that her Biji also loved, but not that many bottles!

And once they all went to see the famous Hydroelectric plant, the Bhakra Dam, which was next to Nangal.

The Bhakra Dam, as mentioned earlier too, had been constructed in the 1950s to tame the mighty river, Sutlej, to create electricity; its water was redirected, captured and then released to make a big lake, called Gobind Sagar, and afterwards this water beyond the hydro plant was then redirected and converted into canals, for watering the farms of Punjab and Himachal.

This was the lake that had engulfed the old Bilaspur town, with its buildings, play grounds and temples, submerged in water, leaving behind only some memories and the history of that town. That was the sacrifice that many people of Himachal had to make for the development of their country.

And the first Prime Minister of India, Pt. Nehru, at that time, had said, that such modern structures, like factories and dams, just like schools, universities and colleges, would be now India’s new temples.

And Murti, on his journey to help erect these new temples of education, was soon again on his way to open another degree college, in Himachal. After his success in Una, in establishing its higher education scene in such a short time, by providing a fully-fledged college, that was going to transform the lives of so many students, from Una, and around, he was transferred to Simla, the capital of Himachal, to show his magic again.

So, again, just after less than one year, they packed up and said goodbye to Una. The girl had still not finished her year 10, and will have to go to yet another new school in Simla. And this time she would be coming from the most backward place in Himachal too, to the most advanced place in Himachal, ‘Simla’ which used to be the capital of British India. She wasn’t looking forward to that!

Unfortunately, Lucy also didn’t travel with them to Simla. She had grown up to be a beautiful, and quite a big dog, in the open surroundings of Una, and it was going to be hard to uproot her again to take to a new place, that is what the little girl was told. Simla was a cold place and Lucy was now more accustomed to hot weather, she was a ‘darling’ of the people around, and was quite comfortable in this place, so the best solution was to leave her there for the next principal of the Una college, who would inherit her with the house, and the next two principals, actually would have the good fortune of enjoying Lucy’s company, and her little ones.

So, the girl left Una with very mixed feelings, and that was also the case with her brother, as they were still quite excited about going to a new place, and also because their older brother was in Simla, at the medical college. They were all also looking forward to being together as a family, and that too, in a cool place, that Simla was, in many different ways!

However, Una, the most un-advanced and not that ‘cool’ place, where they had spent just less than one year, was to leave a deep imprint in their minds, remaining a place, they would never forget.

Before they had come there, they had never been to a place like Una, and had not known what they would encounter there. And everything that they had come across there, had been quite rough and tough: the terrain, the people, the weather, the language, and each of these things had left a lasting impression on them, especially some of the really rustic Punjabi words had crept in their language, among other things.

So, the time, they had spent in Una, would always stay with them, reminding them of all the experiences, which changed them, forever. It was also the year, when the brother grew up to be a young man, and the girl stepped into her youth, reluctantly, holding on to her childhood, which was slipping away very quickly.

José Guadalupe Posada

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No. 35 A. My Magical Bibbee

Each holiday, the little girl would come to spend a few days, or sometimes a few weeks, with her grandparents in Chandigarh. And each time used to be a special time!

This post tells about one of the many typical days, she had spent there, and one of the many stories that their paternal grandmother, Bibbee had told them.

Writing about a typical afternoon when they would arrive at her Bibbee’s house, the girl writes:

Part 1.

Getting off the rickshaw quickly, shouting, “Bibbee, Bibbee, we are here!”, we would run to the back verandah, where she would be sitting on her charpoy posed at just the right point, getting the last of the sun or catching the early evening breeze, her full head of silver gray hair shining like spun silk, her fair translucent skin making her deep-set eyes almost grey, surrounded by her long lashes, it was “a beautiful face”.

“A witch’s face”, as Babbaji, our grandfather would say, “your grandma was so beautiful that women in my village used to say that Bhagatu had married a Jadugarni!”

Bibbee would open her arms with a big smile and we would jump in and get lost in her ample lap, burying into her muslin sari, smelling camphor, ghee, and gurh, cardamom and saffron laced hot milk!

And we always arrived at that time of the day, which would be the chai time, afternoon tea time. As we would arrive, and just on cue, the back door will jingle, and it would be the milkman bringing fresh milk in a small shiny bucket with a lid. And Bibee would shout:

Ismail, aaj to dono time doodh de janvi, bachhe aa gai ne, pani nahi milai kuch din!

She would be telling quite sternly to Ismail, the milkman to come twice a day, and not to mix water in milk, for a few days.

I used to wonder, with no phone in the house, how did they know, the day when we would come, and that has remained a mystery!

As Bibbee, would always say, “I made some pinnies this morning, the ones that you like”.

And soon, Babbaji, our grandfather, would be coming back from Bajwara, the markets, with a bag full of goodies, sesame seed laddoos, peanut and jaggery patti, all our favourites, the nankhatai, the softest butter cookies, from the Irani bakery, and choliya, the raw green chickpeas pods, that we would help to shell, so Bibbee could cook the delicious choliya curry the next day.

And soon, sipping the delicious milky sugary tea, laughing and talking over each other, we would be dunking our biscuits in tea, and blowing fine crumbs of pinnies all around.

Sticky hands, syrupy lips, those were the most delicious times of our lives, school holidays just starting and long days of the next few weeks, stretching ahead, seeming timeless.

Part 2.

After an early dinner at night, we would get ready to snuggle up to Bibbee for a story.

Her stories were usually woven around the village they had left, and of course about my father, their favourite son.

She would always start by telling us about their village, where she had come as the new bride, and where they had lived for years before partition, and till 1957, when my father had built a house in Chandigarh for them:

When we lived in the village, we had a beautiful two storey house. A shop and a house in one, she would always tell us this. Well, Murti, your Papa, you know he was very intelligent, wanted to go to a college in Lahore !

“Yes, I know, he was the only one in the whole village to read the English newspaper”, my brother would chime in. Smarty pants! We had listened to this part many times!

Bibbee would go on,

Yes, your father had won the scholarship to study in Lahore, but to pay for his clothes and travel, we needed money, so I took my necklace to the Sahookar, who gave me 50 rupees for it.

“Why?” my brother was always asking silly questions!

Babbaji would explain “We didn’t have much cash, and your Bibbee had a lot of jewellery, so the best thing was to get some loan and the only rich person in the village was this Sahookar!”

And Bibbee kept going,

We thought that with a good crop and extra income from the shop, we would pay off the loan. But then we had to get more loan and I had to put in almost all my jewelry, and each time, when I gave a piece of my jewelry to the Sahookar,  I asked him to keep it in a safe, so no one wore it.

Finally, I had to give him my gokhru, my favourite golden bangles with a snake head. I knew his wife was jealous of me, and I was sure, that she had been wearing my jewelry but I didn’t want her to even touch my bangles. So, I put a jadu on them!

” Jadu”? My brother and I spoke at once.

You know like your abra ke dabra Abracadabra magic! Bibbee said,

I told him to keep the bangles away from any one’s reach, especially women’s, as, if the bangles touched any woman’s skin, they would turn into snakes and disappear.

Magic, snakes, gold, what else was going to be in this story? Òh my god! My brother and I got scared and excited, I got even more close to Bibbee, even my brother was quiet!

Clearing her throat, Bibbee continued, next day, we women went to get some saag the green mustard leaves, from the field.

The Sahookar’s wife came with us. She was wearing a long-sleeved blouse, and was trying to keep her arms in her shawl. But when we sat down to pick mustard leaves, I noticed something bright peeping out of her sleeve. I looked at her and she looked away!

Bibbee raged and raised her voice.

She was certainly wearing my bangles. I was furious! Didn’t her husband tell her about my Jadu!

“Then what happened Bibbee?” I couldn’t resist asking.

She went on,

I was so annoyed, but then, suddenly, seeing a movement in the grass, I put my hand on the woman’s arm and said quietly, “Don’t move, there is a snake in the bush!” as yes, there really was a snake in the grass, but the silly woman got scared and jumped, thinking that one of the bangles had turned into a snake, she ran straight into the field, and was bitten by the snake there!

“Bibbee, did she die?” We both whispered at the same time.

No, she didn’t, Bibbee said, but it would have been better if she had, as the poor woman fainted and when she came back to life, she had lost her voice forever!

What!!!

“Jadugarni’s jadu!” Babbaji chuckled.

And you know, next day the Sahookar brought all my jewelry in a cloth and begged me to take it all back.

But we still haven’t paid back your money! I resisted. Bibbee said with a wicked smile.

No, no, I don’t want any money, the Sahookar said, and leaving the bundle at my feet, he left in a hurry!

I counted all my jewelry, they were all there, my necklace, earrings, rings and bangles, oh no, one bangle was missing!

“So, it is true Bibbee, that the bangle had become the snake and bit the stupid greedy woman!” My brother whispered sleepily!

Without saying anything, Bibee just gave us her monalisa smile!

But I was not convinced “So how come you got two bangles now?”  I asked sternly!

She had shown them to me once, telling me that when I got married, she will give them to me.

‘Oh, that!’ Caught in the act, Bibbee quickly changed her tone,

You know, what happened, I had kept all my jewellery in my cupboard, and then one day, when I opened the door, there was this …

We were all ears to listen, a second story, a bonus, in one evening?

But she knew how to get out of these tight corners, so very cleverly, she said,

‘well, that is another story, for another day’.

(This story was recited in the SWF in 2018, and is published in Grand Ma’s Bed)

No. 35. Nahan – the story of a town

Nahan, the town beautiful in Himachal, where the little girl and her family had moved in 1966, will remain another memorable chapter in her book of life and that of her siblings. It was in Nahan, where the kids actually grew up. It was here, where life for each of them changed completely, as they all crossed their thresh holds which landed them in very new, very different stages of their individual and collective lives.

The little girl, for example, stepped out of her childhood to enter her girlhood in Nahan, and it was here that she became aware of herself being a girl!

Her younger brother, now an adolescent, discovered himself in Nahan. He found his singing voice and along with it developed confidence in being around people. He was to become the star of their small gatherings where he would sing a couple of his favourite Mohamad Rafi songs and win every heart.

Their older brother had started his pre-medical year and was just a step away from going to the medical college. He was still their hero, and they both followed his lead, in most of things, especially the little girl.

Now, Nahan was not like other Himachal towns, where the family had lived. The Shivalik hills, which surround the town, are much lower in altitude to the other areas of Himachal There was also no river going through the town, and the weather was drier, and warmer. People in Nahan also spoke in Hindi, instead of Pahari, so, it was easier to communicate. The town was also very well planned and built beautifully, using a lot of white marble and red sand stone, and wide paved streets.

The town itself, built around the small hills, is scattered within the open and the wide ridges in between them. The King’s palace and a few royal buildings were majestically situated on the top of a hill, on an open ridge, from where, small streets spread down like the branches of an upside down tree, with houses stuck on them, their old fashioned, traditional verandas, and balconies sticking out. This was the most interesting part of this town, with shops, and temples and old historic houses all along the streets.

The college precinct was in the open area down from the palace, just next to the big playground, Chougan, the focal point of the town. This is where most of the sport and cultural activities of the town took place. This was also where each year, in October, Ram Leela was held, an amateur drama showing incidents from Lord Ram’s life, and his adventures in the forest with his brother Lakshman and wife Sita.

There were three colleges in Nahan. One of them was the Degree college, where Papaji was the principal now, and then there was also an Arts College, offering dance, drama, classical and vocal music classes both during the day and the evening, which functioned under the charge of the principal of the Degree college, and then the Degree college building also hosted the Evening PG classes in the evening, hence all these institutes were under his supervision.

There were two other hills in Nahan, one was known as the hospital round where naturally the hospital was, and then the Shervilla , or the military round, which was a few kilometres long road circling a dense forest. This road would become famous for Papaji’s morning walks, and around which the kids would also have a few memorable adventures, like getting lost in the forest, on one of their morning walks, under the tutelage of their handsome Air force mamaji, uncle, Virender Soni, who visited them in his holidays every year, and left a few college girls in that town pining for him.

The principal’s house was half a kilometre away from the college precinct. It was not a bungalow or a kothi like the ones in the previous places, but just a big house with a huge terrace on its roof, and an open area right in the middle of the house, with kitchen, bedrooms and drawing room around opening in it. This was used for a variety of things, a makeshift sitting area, dining area. The kids studied or played there. This was also where they all had evening tea, and the parents received their visitors. Nahan in summer could be quite warm, but evenings were quite pleasant, especially outside, or on the roof top, so sometimes they would all sleep on the roof, though many times, they had to run downstairs when it started to drizzle at night.

The little girl was now in the Girls’ high school, where her Biji also taught, so both mother and daughter walked together to the school, which was just half a kilometre or so from their house. Her younger brother went to the boys’ school a bit further away, and enjoyed walking alone. He was shaping up to be a hardworking and a hard-playing person, achieving high marks in studies through sheer hard work, and then also enjoying his hobbies, exploring possibilities to have fun and spending time with his friends. He was though quieter than his siblings and was also a bit shy in front of others.

Sometimes, the brothers fought, as they shared a bedroom, and there were always reasons to fight over things. At times, the girl had come home to find her younger brother’s wooden almirah that he kept under lock and key, as it held his valuable diaries, and other stuff, sitting outside their room, and she knew the brothers had had a fight that day, and the older brother had exiled him from their shared room.

But they always ended up sitting together at night, back in their room, both younger kids, listening to their older brother’s stories, or listening to songs on his makeshift transistor which could catch radio waves.

Those were the days when they had started enjoying Hindi film music, especially programs like Binaka Geetmala, from radio Ceylon, and Tameele Irshad from Urdu service, but unfortunately, the program times clashed with Papaji being home, in the late evenings, when the radio could not be switched on.

Papaji was an early riser, and Biji also had to get up early to practise her classic music lesson that she would then teach to her students at the school, so the radio was switched off after the nine p.m news.

In Nahan, it was a very busy schedule for both Papaji and Biji. Early morning, Papaji went for his walk, then after breakfast he walked to the college, coming back around 4 p.m. to eat something, take a quick power nap, refresh himself and go back to the college, which would turn into the evening college. He would come home around 8.00 p.m., when they all had dinner together. After dinner, the parents went for a walk, and the kids did their homework, and after 9 o’clock news, everyone retired to bed.

Biji had started feeling the stress of her job, and Papaji’s busy schedule, and their busy social lives, as they always had to go to the district functions, the college functions, dinners and sometimes lunches. She finally left her job to take care of her household, especially her children, that she thought needed her to be home. She had worked for four years all together and used to say,

do aarzu mei cut gaye, do intizar mei’, out of four days of life, two were spent in pining for it, and two in waiting for it to end.

The kids’ days were quite full too. As after a full day at school, they had N.C.C. (National Cadet Corps) training and parade, a government-initiated program to keep students fit and disciplined in military style. The training for both girls and boys from year six onward would take place in their respective schools a few days a week, after which some snacks and cold drinks, juice, cold milk, or some cola, were distributed, which they all loved. They also sang patriotic songs there, that the girl loved even more. She loved music. Songs and singing were a part of her being, just like stories and books.

In Nahan, due to the arts college, she had started to learn classical music from a teacher, and she dreamed of singing a duet with her mother one day, as her auntie, Teeshi massi used to sing. After a few months at it, though she did pick up some melody, sur and taal of singing, but she couldn’t get much further in playing the harmonium, while her older brother, without any teaching, could play any song on the harmonium, he had this knack of instrumental music. Whether, a flute mouth organ, or even empty cups and spoons, he could create music.

He had flexible hours, and the college was quite close to their house, so sometimes, he would come home early, when no one else was home, and sit in his room or the roof top, and play his flute. He played it so melodiously.

The roof was a versatile place, as many summer evening and winter Sunday mornings were spent there, the kids getting an oil massage or after lunch basking in the afternoon sun, reading a book, taking a nap. Biji would be knitting, or rolling vadhiayan, the little nuggets of lentil and spice mix, which had to be kept in the sun to dry, or she would make pickles, on the roof top. It was so peaceful to just be there, with everyone doing their thing.

The roof was also a hiding place, the little girl would read her first novel there, as she was not allowed to read novels till then, and the younger brother, who was a bit shy used to hide there to get away from others. Or when he didn’t want anyone to find him, as he wanted to ‘think’! Once some guests arrived to visit their parents, and the brother quickly went up to the roof to avoid them. But then the visitors ended up staying for a few hours, so he couldn’t come down for hours, till they all left.

That year, the girl celebrated her 12th birthday and Biji organised a party on the roof top, and a few of her friends came over. Biji baked a cake which was a novelty in Nahan, and all her friends couldn’t stop talking about it the next day.

The younger brother did not want a fuss on his birthdays, but Biji always invited some guests to have a party. And he also received a handknitted jumper, a gift from Biji, as she used to knit at least one sweater for each one of the kids, and one for Papaji.

And then the older brother turned 18, and celebrated his birthday there. He had invited his whole class, boys and girls, but, that evening, one of the girls, whom he really liked, didn’t come. She had turned down his invitation, by saying, “Vesi to koi baat nahi, par mei aaungi nahi”, meaning, “don’t take it personally, but I won’t be able to come to the party”!

The little girl was quite disappointed, as she had heard a lot about her, that she always wore white, and looked like a dove, so she had been looking forward to meeting this girl. But then after a few days, they were to find out why she hadn’t come!

Everyone had fun that evening late into the night and the younger kids, the little girl and her younger brother were allowed to join in too. There was music, with young people singing, and clapping, her brother played his flute and mouth organ. His best friend, Munnu, Ranbir was into poetry so lots of poems both Hindi or Urdu and English were recited.

Such parties remained quite a part of their life in Nahan, in addition to many picnics in and around Nahan, that they went to, sometimes, with friends, or with family members, and sometimes with the college students, and staff.

On Sundays, they used to go to visit the beautiful places in and around Nahan. There were a few lakes, or tanks in Nahan, with gardens around them. Some elite families had moved out of the congested old town to build their palatial houses in these beautiful areas, and the kids would get a chance to get together with the aristocracy of Nahan. With their children studying in faraway private and convent boarding schools, the little girl and her brothers were welcomed by these lonely parents, as Biji and Papaji would befriend a couple of these families.

For example, they all used to visit a Mr and Mrs Chauhan, who were the most aristocratic family they had ever been close to. Surprisingly both were quite down to earth people, and were very friendly and affectionate towards Papaji and Biji, and of course the kids. Their own children studied in a boarding school.

Professor Bhardwaj, one of Papaji’s colleagues at work, also became a part of these meetings, along with his wife, who adored the kids, not having any of hers, and they all ended up spending a lot of time together, talking, cracking jokes, singing and reciting couplets. The girl still remembers these evenings that they all spent on Mr Chauhan’s elegant terrace in his palatial villa.

The little girl even visited the royal palace, a couple of times, to play with the two princesses of Nahan, a privilege that remained in her memory for a long time, something which actually made her grateful for not being born in a royal family, and to have the freedom of going around unattended, choose who to play with, and be able to eat golgappe at the chabri, the street food, or just walk around the town with friends, unencumbered by the restrictions imposed on the royalty.

Then, there was another beautiful house, in the Ranital area, where a family, with four sisters lived, and the youngest of them was her favourite. She was her English teacher too. The girl just adored her, the way she taught, the way she dressed or did her hair. That family always threw parties and the girl would look forward to going there with her parents. She missed not having sisters.

At one function, at their house, they met an older couple, a retired army officer and his wife, a fragile looking beautiful woman with snow white hair, that she still remembers. They had a beautiful young girl with them, maybe their daughter. But, when they were introduced, they found out this girl was not their daughter, but their daughter in law, their son’s widow. She looked so fresh and beautiful in her white outfit, with a chiffon chunnie covering her head, that the little girl couldn’t take her eyes off her.

This beautiful girl, she found out, was actually her older brother’s classmate, the girl, who had not come to his party!

In the 1962 war many young men had not come back home, and their parents, their wives, or fiancés had to bear the biggest loss of their lives. This was the truth of war, the other side. As before this the little girl had only associated war with singing patriotic songs, and marching an NCC parade, that always ended in refreshments, and everyone coming back home.

She left the party sobbing all the way back home. She was discovering a lot in life, which was not all that rosy, what she had thought of life, when she was little.

Things could be ugly, and people could be cruel, she was finding out. Once, a student in her school said to her, “rolly polly duck, or something rude on these lines, calling her ugly, and fat, as she was a bit fat, as compared to other girls in her class, and she came home feeling really down and teary. She was also becoming conscious of her own skin colour which as compared to her Biji, was not that fair. This had a depressing impact on her, and she didn’t want to go anywhere or see anyone and this went on for a few months.

Then, Papaji spoke to her one day, explaining to her about inner beauty, and intelligence, and the light, which she carried, and which made her unique and beautiful.

He said to her, “while others cannot see it, but you know that, don’t you? That is your secret, you know who you are, and how beautiful,” this conversation might have been Biji’s idea, but it worked.

And since that day, the little girl held her head high. And this lesson about inner beauty and confidence, that no one can take away from you, has remained with her forever.

The college sports lecturer, Ms Ponga was also instrumental in bringing a change in her thinking, and in building her confidence, that she did through building her physique. She took her out to join a volleyball camp, and then also got her involved in playing sport at a regular basis, table tennis, badminton etc.

Soon, the girl came out of herself, and started to get involved in cultural activities at her school. In her year 8, she was the monitor of her class. She wrote and directed a play on Chacha Nehru and Red Rose, which they then played at her school. She also participated in a satirical drama with college students for a youth festival competition, acting as an eccentric lawyer trying to sue Lord Ram for breaking Lord Shiva’s bow, a mythical story with a modern touch.

During Ram Leela, that year, she took part in a debate on Ramayana, and was awarded Rs 10 for winning the second place. With her award money, she bought a green silk scarf from the Gandhi Khadi stall, her first chunnie!

Next summer, she participated in the Summer festival held annually in Simla, where she went with other students, and Ms Ponga, and stayed in a hostel for a week. She had never stayed away from home, and felt quite grown up without Biji to look after her.

In their school holidays, she and her brother had already started to spend a few days with their grandparents, in Chandigarh, without Biji. Papaji would take them there on his tour to attend a meeting and the kids would spend their holiday there, oscillating between their paternal and maternal grandparents’ houses, enjoying their very different food and lifestyles.

Sometimes, after a couple of weeks, Biji would arrive and they would go to visit their auntie Nannaji, and her family, who also lived in Chandigarh, or sometimes they would go to Delhi, where Biji’s other younger sister and their Bua, Papaji’s sister lived, to spend a week or so with each one of them.

All of these families also visited them in Nahan, and even though they all had a very different lifestyle, one thing was the same in each one of them, and which ran beneath everything, it was love. Papaji’s brothers and sisters, and Biji’s younger brothers were also in this network, and very much a part of their circle of loved ones.

The atmosphere in their house was always warm, as Biji was a great host, generous and hospitable. Many of the kids, especially the older brother’s friends would come and spend time at their place, being part of their routine. Their brother, R.D., who had become a part of the family since Bilaspur days, when Papaji had supported him to study medicine, also came to spend his holidays from his medical college in Maharashtra.

This was also the time, when the kids were confirming their friendships with their cousins, on their own, which would last their lifetimes. Their cousin, Nannaji’s son came to study in Nahan, and became a part of their trio.

These visits would be cherished by them all their lives, the time they spent with their aunties and uncles, and cousins, was memorable. Especially for the little girl, cousins were very important, and because she had always missed not having a sister, her love and affection for her cousin sisters grew tremendously, giving her a warm feeling inside.

Then the love their grandparents showered on them, the simple home cooked food they enjoyed at their houses, gave them everlasting wonderful feelings, and the stories that the grandparents told them about their parents, as through these stories, they got to know a lot about their own parents, about their childhood, and youth, their struggles during partition, the good and the not so good times, the families had gone through.

Especially from their paternal grandma, Bibbee’s stories, the little girl learnt a lot about her own father, but she also learnt about storytelling, knitting a yarn, and having a twist in the tale at the tail end! For example the story Bibbee told them about her bangles turning into snakes, is imprinted on her mind still!

The little girl had always indulged in the imaginary world, thinking up stories, and telling stories, may be because she had been lonely, and also because reading stories was a very important part of her life. There were always books at their house, non-fiction or story books, as everyone in their family used to enjoy reading. Papaji read the newspaper, and always had a couple of English periodical journals, and a few hard cover books at hand, which he was always diving into. The brothers also read books, comics, magazines, novels, anything that they could get their hands on.

She mainly read her mother’s weekly and monthly magazines, and the library books or novels that she was allowed to read, and then she also started buying books and magazines from her pocket money, a habit to last her forever. In Nahan, she found the Geeta Press Gorakhpur stalls, which is a charity organisation, that used to publish a variety of religious books, and autobiographies of great people, or tales from other countries, and sell them quite cheap, just for one or two paisa each.

It was through these books, that she read stories from the New Testament, Aesop’s fables, and Jataka stories and then Hindi translations of Bhagwat Gita, and Vedanta stories from the Upanishads. These books naturally widened her mind, and gave her much fodder for thought too. She mainly read books in Hindi, but had started to experiment with English books too. As she read fairy tales from many other countries and cultures around the world.

Hindi had become a preferred language at home, along with Punjabi, and English used mainly by Papaji, had also started to become a part of their multi-lingual repertoire. The kids had already been exposed to Urdu, as Papaji always recited couplets but also thanks to their older brother’s recitations, that they had to ‘suffer’ and appreciate every night. The girl especially enjoyed Urdu poetry, trying to understand the nuances of this elegant language. So much so that she ended up taking Urdu language as a subject at school in year nine.

In terms of study for the purpose of studying, as compared to her brothers, she was not very studious, though they all had to study, as it was expected of them. Her younger brother always studied hard, finishing his home work and doing extra study every day, though their older brother would rebel against any study rules at home, as he would study only when he felt like, sometimes while listening to music, or would start playing his flute in the middle of his study time, which grown ups couldn’t understand. After his pre-medical exams, he was selected to go to the medical college in Amritsar, which was in Punjab, he went there, but then he didn’t like it there and got sick, he was missing Himachal and came back to Nahan. The rest of the year, he spent at home, reading novels, and poetry books, and spending a lot of time on the roof, playing music, meeting his friend Ranbir, and reciting poetry.

And then towards the middle of the following year, he left for Simla to study at the newly opened medical college, and everyone missed him. Biji was not able to eat anything without shedding tears for months, and the house was quite empty without his typical noises, and his music. And the girl missed him a lot too.

Being an only daughter, she had always been a bit lonely any way, but after he left, it was even more lonely. So, she turned to books, her best companions as they would remain for ever, especially whenever she felt sad or lonely, keeping her warm always.

But then, one thing that warmed her all over, and made her a very happy girl happened, as finally, in Nahan, she was allowed to have her own pet, a dog, that she had always wanted.

Lucy was the world’s cutest golden puppy that she had found playing beside the road, and had fallen in love with. She brought it home, and named it after Wordsworth’s poem, Lucy Grey, the girl lost in a snow storm, that she had recently read.

Lucy was to become her companion, and she would play with it, talk to it and sleep with it.

And then the time came for them to leave Nahan, as it always did.

They had spent three years in Nahan, coming there as children, but were youngsters now, the older brother was already in his second year of medicine in Simla, the younger brother was going to start college soon, and she was in year nine, with just one more year to go before she also finished high school.

The kids were quite excited to leave Nahan, as future awaited them there in the new place, the next town, Una, the newest town of Himachal, where Papaji had been transferred to open a new degree college.

When their furniture and other household stuff, which had to be sent separately by a truck to Una, was getting packed, she spoke to her father about taking Lucy with her, but dogs were not allowed to go in the bus, and the family had to travel that day by bus, so Lucy couldn’t come with them.

She spent the whole journey missing Lucy, and speaking to it in her imaginary stories, and feeling miserable. But when she finally arrived in Una, a surprise awaited her there.

(The post 35 A will be a story that the girl remembers that her Bibbee had told them on a winter evening).

No. 34 Mandi – lost and found

Part 1

In 1963, the family arrived in Mandi, which is another town in Himachal, when the little girl’s father, Ram Murti Sharma became the principal of the Government Degree College in Mandi.

Uprooted from their comfort zone in Bilaspur, the family shifted from the principal’s kothi in Bilaspur to the principal’s bungalow in Mandi. And the kids started the routine once again, of settling down in a new town, getting used to the new place, and the new school, meeting new people, and making new friends etc. etc. etc.

Mandi was the place, where, more than a decade ago, young Murti and Usha had come with their first born, their older son, and this was the birthplace of their youngest child, their daughter, the little girl. Mandi, and basically Himachal where they had arrived after leaving Punjab, was always going to be home for the family.

Situated in a beautiful valley, created by the majestic river Bias, and a seasonal rivulet, Sukaiti Khad, Mandi is surrounded by high mountains. While they had been in Mandi the previous time, Murti, the girl’s father had been the young professor of English, and her mother, Usha had been looking after her small children, with help from Murti, and his youngest brother, Brahm, who had come to finish his graduation at the Mandi Degree college.

At that stage, Usha would not have even imagined that she would ever go back to study at a college, and actually sit for exams.

And now, she had passed her Bachelor of Education (B.Ed.), and just as she and Murti had planned for her to become a teacher, she had joined the Himachal education sector as a government schoolteacher; and in Mandi, she was going to teach music at the local girls’ high school.

The little girl had started her year 4 in the primary school, and her brother, the younger of her two brothers, had joined the boys high school, in year six. Their older brother was at the college now in his pre university class, and after that, he was going to do pre-medical, before he could go to the medical college.

The Paddal area, where they lived in Mandi, was a bit far from the Mandi town, towards the Kullu Manali Highway, at the banks of the majestic River, Bias. Their schools, however, were all in the heart of the town, a couple of kilometres from the college, across the Sukaiti bridge, which the kids needed to cross every day to go the school.

Mandi is both an ancient, and a modern town, a town of temples and narrow streets bursting with activity, with people milling around in and out all times of the day. Many doorways open in these streets from the close knitted households, with generations of family members living under one roof.

In the heart of the town, there were shops, selling everything on this earth, where the little girl would love to visit one day, but from where, she just passed through each day to go to school, looking at the beautiful dress materials, shiny kitchen ware, jewellery, shoes, stationary, toys.

In one corner of the bazar, Chohtta bazar, there used to be the one eyed chooran walla, selling his famous chooran, the sweet and sour coarse powder, his special concoction of different spices, and some chemicals. There was always a little crowd around him, with people buying a small amount of chooran, on a piece of an old newspaper, and for a paisa more, he would put a drop of a fiery liquid, which would create a small cloud of strong smelling smoke! Children would lick the piece of paper clean to get to the last atom of their chooran!

There was a cinema, with a few tea stalls and Pan Walla shops, selling beetle nut leaves and cigarettes, around it, and a soda fountain shop, which used to sell kulfi ice cream and the most delicious frothy drink in a bante walli soda bottle, with a marble instead of a cork stuck in its mouth, the drink, the kids would be treated to on special occasions!

The music emanating from the radios in every pan walla’s shop, the calls of the street vendors, and beggars littered everywhere, added to the cacophony of the bus -y- ness of the inner-city which was quite a congested area.

Paddal in comparison was a much quieter place, as other than the college building, and a few houses for the college staff, there were just a few kothies for officers, mostly single-story houses, with picket fences, and manicured green lawns all situated around or close to Mandi’s iconic Paddal ground.

Along-side the banks of the river Bias, where the principal’s bungalow was, it was an exclusive area, as that is where Mandi’s famous club house was. There was also the circuit house, which was a beautiful colonial style bungalow situated on top of a small hill, where the most high-flying official dignitaries would come to stay while on a tour.

The river Bias was just behind their house, from where each morning, thick fog would travel to cover the whole area in an opaque pall, which would only recede as the sun rose up in the sky. The fog and the river’s sound would create mornings and evenings which were both misty and mysterious, as they could only hear the sound of the river, but they couldn’t see it from their house.

From the back of the club, which was a huge open area, dotted with green shimmering rolling hills and mounds sloping down to the riverbank, they could run down towards the river. Almost every week, a few times, in the evenings, in the summer months, and afternoons in winter, their parents, or their mother would go to the club, to catch up with other officers, and friends, and while the grownups sat and chatted over cups of tea and plates of dainty cheese and tomato sandwiches, and hot pakodas, the kids would play games, running down the hills, the boys chasing the imaginary robbers, and the ‘baddies’, and the girls singing songs, hoisting their colourful chunnies, long scarves, behind them running down gracefully, like gazelles.

In the summer evenings, they would all just lie down on their backs on the green sloped lawns of the club, looking at the starry sky.

Mandi had the starriest sky in the world, pitch dark, almost black, smooth as satin with endless sparkling stars, so close, almost blinking at them, like diamonds in the sky, though the girl had never seen a diamond as yet. But she knew what beauty was, and Mandi was beautiful, and just so picturesque!

The college was just across from the Paddal ground, where many local festivals and sport events took place and on which hundreds of students milled around during the day, and in the evenings, locals, mainly young boys and girls, came out to enjoy the open atmosphere, and the cool breeze, coming from the river Bias.

Mandi, at that stage had one of the most advanced female populations in Himachal, as the girls in their culture and society always had the freedom in selecting whom they wanted to marry, and with the college providing them an opportunity to get higher education, they usually had a choice to do something other than marrying, and be someone. The smartly dressed older and younger females going around doing their daily chores, including going to the college to study, or visiting their close-knit family houses, were a distinct feature of the Mandi town.

There were also a few lady lecturers at the college, and they used to visit their house, as the girl’s mother had befriended them. These smart, young beautiful women, chattering in English, talking in an interesting way, were so different from those aunties, who were mainly house- wives, wives of professors, and mothers of many of her friends.

And out of all, it was the English professor, Krishna Vaidya, the most smartly dressed woman in the town, who became the little girl’s hero! She used to come to their house more often, as Biji and she had become really close friends. The little girl formed a bond with Krishna Auntie, mainly, because she used to talk to the girl, asking her questions, and actually listening to her answers.

Interestingly, Krishna Auntie had a black velvet coat that she always wore on top of her beautiful silk sarees, and which the girl always admired. And one day, when Krishna got married to one of Usha’s cousins, who had arrived from England for a holiday, and had visited them in Mandi, she gave that coat to the little girl.

A few of young men from Usha’s or Murti’s family, their cousins and brothers, used to visit them in Himachal, it was much more exciting to spend their holidays in Himachal, rather than in Chandigarh, or Panjab, as Usha’s younger brothers Jitender and Virender Soni, who would both join Air Force, would say.

Well, this cousin of Usha, who came for a week to Mandi, met Krishna and swept her off her feet, and Krishna, who was so adamant that she wouldn’t get married, got married and left Mandi for ever in a hurry, and then before leaving to go to her husband’s house in another city, she gifted her black coat to the little girl. Though it was still too big for her, but the girl cherished it and kept it in her section of the cupboard, waiting to wear it one day!

Her mother that day, when she was crying for Krishna Auntie, had actually told her a story of another black coat that someone had gifted to her when she was a young girl, a continuation of dreams and ambitions, which with god’s grace and her own hard work, she had fulfilled!

Now it was the turn of the little girl and she knew what she wanted to do, as she had already decided at that tender age, that she would also teach at a college one day, and would also become an English lecturer, just like Krishna Auntie, and her own father, confident, engaging and interesting.

Her interest in literature, and her ambition of being an English professor, might have been a result of her fascination with language and words used by people like her own father and people like Krishna who spoke so well.

Especially, her father, who was a great speaker, and an excellent teacher, spoke in the most interesting manner, embellishing his speech by anecdotes, jokes, and poetry. And most probably, that is what made the little girl fall in love with the art of story- telling, yes, one day, she wanted to write stories too.

She wanted to know more about the craft of words, knitting stories, giving information in an interesting manner, and this need also encouraged her to read, and to read a lot, something that she had started very early in life, a habit to stay with her for ever.

Actually, in their family, everyone read a lot, and they always had a few magazines, and books newspapers scattered around. Their father read the newspaper, and English magazines, like Readers Digest and Time, were part of the stack on his table, with thick literary books, and their mother loved to read story books, novels, and magazines, like women’s weekly types, and the kids would also read children’s magazines, as they would get pocket money to buy a couple of magazines every month, and then they would read books from the college library.

The Mandi college had a good library, and every week, the kids walked to the college library to borrow books to read, and to return the books they had read, and they would go the college building from their home through the Paddal ground which those days, seemed, an endless sea of brown and green, like an old patchwork tapestry, woven with splashes of brown dirt and patches of green grass. It took them a long time to cover the few hundred meters distance, as they skipped from one patch to the next, while racing round and round on their way to the library.

The Paddal area, where the college was, was basically in between the two water ways, Bias river and Sukaiti, the most temperamental seasonal rivulet. Both rivers, after flowing parallel to each other for a while, meet at a point, encircling the Paddal area, turning it into a peninsular.

Now, there were two ways to go to their respective schools, across the Sukaiti khad. One was the pucca the permanent bridge, which was a bit longer route, or the short cut, by crossing Sukaiti at a point where it was mostly shallow, by wadding through its ankle-deep water or over the make-shift temporary bridge on it.

But in the rainy season, when the seasonal rivulets turn wild and wide in Himachal, this would become a very dangerous crossing. With all the extra water arriving from the mountains, the flow of the water in Sukaiti would get much stronger as it moved fast towards the Bias river, deep and calmer, waiting patiently for its beloved sister, the impatient, restless Sukaiti Khad, to merge with it.

The little girl, and her brother’s schools were adjacent to each other, but their Biji’s school was a bit further down, more towards the south part of the town. It was the high school, and in two years- time, it would be her school too, and she would go to school with her Biji and the girl couldn’t wait!

Every morning, the girl would walk with her brother, but just at the corner of the street, where the school building was, the brother would leave her to walk the rest by herself. She knew that he loved her, but he was just very shy and didn’t want his school friends to see him walking with his sister and holding her hand. 

At the end of her year four, the girl had to sit for a scholarship exam, which was to be held at the boys school. That morning, Biji had specifically asked her brother to take her to the examination hall with him. But once at the corner of his school building, just before the school gate, he pointed at where she needed to go and walked away, and she stood there for the whole morning, and missed the exam!

Years later, someone would tell her, that he had seen her standing there in the corner between the two schools, looking lost and so lovely, in her white frock, with a white ribbon in her dark hair, and that he had fallen in love with her that day. But she had not seen him, or anyone else that day, as she had just been looking at the building of the school, hoping that someone would be coming for her, to take her to the examination hall.

In the afternoons again after school, the girl would walk alone home. Her brother would linger on his way home playing with marbles, and old walnuts, kanchte and Khod, games so popular among boys, to win or lose these worthless objects!

She missed Bilaspur days, and her friends, as she had still not made friends with the children who lived close to her house. So she walked home alone, chatting to her imaginary friends.

One afternoon, during their first rainy season in Mandi, she followed other Paddal students home. These kids had decided to go home via the make-shift bridge. This route was not safe during the rainy season, as the depth and flow of the water at that point where they had to cross the Khad, was uncertain, and the rocks on which the planks of the bridge rested, would be shaking and moving a bit due to the torrential water flowing under the bridge.

The little girl, following other children, and walking slowly, arrived at the bridge, but by then, most of the children had already crossed the bridge.

Trying to catch up with those who were still visible on the other side of the rivulet, she quickly stepped on the bridge, and started walking towards them. With her hands clenched in little fists, and her body swaying with the planks of wood, which were quite unstable, she kept walking slowly, putting one foot at the front of the other, and was almost half-way in. And then she stopped, and from one side of the bridge, she looked down.

Mesmerized by the flow of the water, she stood there leaning over the bridge, looking down, in the water. She was fascinated by the speed of water carrying the dark green whirlpools of stones, rocks, twigs, going round and round, flowing fast, all going somewhere with a purpose, beckoning her to follow them, where ever, they were going, and before she could even realise what was happening, she had fallen into the water. The flow of the water took her towards the two rivers’ merging point, where the Sukaiti and Bias met, and plunged her into the deepest part of the water, head down.

For a split second, she felt the change in the temperature from the shallow and warm Sukaiti Khad’s water, to the deep and calm icy water of the Bias river, when suddenly, someone pulled at her school bag, which was wrapped around her shoulder, and dragged her out of the river.

Part 2

The little girl was thus saved, as a dhobi, who had been washing clothes on the other side of the Bias river had seen her falling in the water, and had jumped into the water straight away.

Swimming fast he had reached just in time to drag her away from the deep water. Once out, scared and drenched, with water oozing out of every atom of her body, trembling and dreading what her mother would say, when she found out about her ‘drowning’, the girl had run home quickly.

The other children had already run fast to tell the people in their colony, so by the time, she arrived, with the wet bag still hanging on to her, or she to it, there were many people around her house, and what happened after her father and mother came home, that she cannot remember.

But due to this incident, she ended up making quite a few friends, who after that day, always accompanied her to school and back. Though they were now forbidden to take the ‘short cut’!

Soon the incident would be forgotten, and her school bag would be dried with her ruined copies and books replaced, it would become just a faint memory of what had happened that day, but the scary shaan shaan – sound of the water, and the icy feel of the deep blue, were to always stay with her- as a message of the deep blue, never to be forgotten.

She would always be attracted towards water, but would also be scared of it, with the realisation of the fragility of human existence, in front of the power and the majestic beauty of nature.

Water, she knew could be soothing and loving, but then it can be wild and wicked, one just needs to balance, and have a strong mind to withstand its fury.

As, a couple of times, during their stay in Mandi, she did have a different experience of water.

When they used to travel to Chandigarh to visit their grandparents, they had to cross another rivulet, Ghambher Khad, going berserk during  the rainy season. Actually, the route to Punjab from Himachal those days was an adventure in itself, as it was always uncertain in the rainy season,  if it would take them, a day or three days to reach Chandigarh.

Especially, if they had to go through a transhipment, exchanging buses across the Ghambher Khad, as the bridge over it would have swept away, due to the tons of the torrential water churning in it.

The luggage and the passengers, mainly women and children would be carried across by burly swimmers, on a mashaq, a large pouch made of buffalo skin, filled with air so it floated, while men would swim across, and then they would all get into the bus waiting on the other side of the water.

While crossing on the mashaqs, the kids would be scared as they got splashed by the water, but with her eyes shut, she would hold on tightly to the neck of the person taking her across on his back, while he would be using his arms to swim across strongly.

Once, they had established themselves in Mandi, their parents had started being the most gracious of the guests and the best hosts. Papaji, known as Principal Sharma, had good relations with his colleagues, those who were teaching or working in his college, and also other administrative officers posted in Mandi, similarly, Biji, known as Mrs. Sharma was quite social and was good at making friendships at different levels, professors’ wives, who lived in the neighbourhood, the lady lecturers, who visited her, and some of the officers’ wives, with whom she had formed social relations. They were usually out to dinners, and many times, there were dinners and parties at their bungalow too.

One particular party that the little girl remembers was the party that had to be cancelled. It was a Kitty party, women’s afternoon tea party, when her mother had invited all the officers’ wives, and many of her other friends from the college staff.

The girl was all excited as she was going to meet many of her favourite aunties, and some of her friends who were also coming with their mothers, when suddenly a shocking news had come. Pandit Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India, had died of a heart attack. The party was cancelled naturally.

Everyone had tears in their eyes, especially the children who had all loved their Chacha Nehru, and she was sobbing the most, as he had been her most favourite person, though, other than a fleeting chance meeting when he had thrown a bunch of roses out of his car window towards her in Solan, she had never met him. His death was to be treated as a personal loss for the whole family.

Part 3

The parents believed in ideals and had great respect for those who had made sacrifices for the independence of India. And it was going to be the little girl’s and her brothers’ legacy too, as their hearts were always filled with love and respect for the nation’s leaders and those who continued to contribute to build its future.

This sentiment was also reinforced by the story books the kids  read; and the films they saw. Those days in Himachal, open air public screening of patriotic, motivating and character-building films and nation building documentaries by the department of public relations was quite common. There were still no T.V.s, and the only way to inform, and inspire people was through radio, or the newspaper, and these free screenings were used as a way of educating the public through visual media.

Most house holds had a radio those days, and listening to news, that parents did, and filmi songs, that youngsters did, was very much a part of their growing up. Even today, remembering the patriotic songs, written especially during the 1962 war between India and China, that used to be played on radio, can thrill and give goose bumps to those who grew up during those days!

Close to their house, there was a small open area, where once in a couple of months, old and patriotic films were shown. All the kids from the neighbourhood would go together, taking a rug to sit on, and a shawl to rug up, and their parents would sit on the chairs at the back, and enjoy these films in their very own open air and free cinema.

The films they saw there, have remained engraved in their memories, Jagriti, the awakening, with a blind student teaching his classmate, a lesson of hard work and humility through tragedy; then Do aankhe barha haath, two eyes and twelve hands, the dedication of a jailor, transforming six hard core socially outcast criminals; Hum panchi ek daal ke,  students from a school caught in a mishap, learning the lesson of unity.

And then there were the patriotic films based on the brave freedom fighters like Bhagat Singh, or soldiers in the previous wars, who had lost their lives fighting for their country.

These were just a handful of films, which kept being screened every couple of months, but the kids enjoyed them, sobbing and crying, or laughing every time, at the same scenes, that they had seen many times.

Especially, the little girl and her friends, when going to see one of these films with heart wrenching scenes, would be reminding each other “don’t forget the handkerchief, muie, for the scene when the boy has the accident, we will have to cry!” 

Growing up in Mandi, the kids were just enjoying being Himachalies, residents of Himachal. The little girl and her brothers were picking up the Mandi dialect, and had started to use some of the particular Mandiali words, like ‘muie’, which actually means, ‘you ready to die person’, but is used as an endearment like ‘dear’.

Their parents though were busy in their own work, they were always there, encouraging the kids to participate, in their explorations, finding new things, getting new experiences. And, the whole family was participating in the local cultural activities, such as the Dhams, the communal eating, attending the Mandi’s famous Shiv Ratri fair, an annual event, or the Keertan and Bhandara at the goddess, Tarna Devi’s temple, and the midnight ceremonies at the Bhoothnath temple.

Then there were cultural programs at their school, where the little girl would participate in Pahari dances, and sing songs, and the college functions, thus participating fully in the culture and community of Mandi. They also enjoyed the Mandiali cuisine, rice daal, and the sweet and sour, spicy food to what they had already been initiated in Bilaspur, during their regular eating at Malhotra family’s house.

In Mandi culture, every occasion, like weddings, birthdays, and other cultural ceremonies, were celebrated with a Dham the communal eating, with rows and rows of people sitting on the floor, eating taking turns, even after funerals people were invited to partake of the communal food, and the Dham food was even sent home to those people, who couldn’t come to eat.  The kids loved the variety of this food, and with at least one Dham per week in the town, they would get to enjoy a feast almost every week.

And then, sometimes they would get a chance to travel through the state on a jeep, to the places around Mandi, for example the little girl can never forget her trip to the famous Riwalsir Lake for the Baisakhi mela, the memorable fair, where her father had jumped into the lake to surface after 20 minutes on the other side, just to accept a challenge, giving the little girl almost a heart attack!

Then another trip to Joginder Nagar, it was all exciting, but it was also quite scary, as they took a dangerous ride on a tram, sitting in a trolley through Barot valley, which moved on a steel rope making a strange sound as if someone were coughing and crying, ohn kh ohn kh ohn kh!

She has also never forgotten their trip to Kullu and Manali, which was a few hours’ drive from Mandi, and which has stayed in her memory, for other reasons. They had gone there on a jeep and had stayed there for a few days. It was one of the most beautiful picturesque areas, she has ever seen, in the Parbati river valley surrounded by snow clad mountains, and crisscrossed by the post card perfect bridges, with the majestic river flowing alongside the roads, and on both sides of the roads, there were miles of beautiful stone fruit trees, laden with pink, white and peach flowers, colourful, and delicate, light, like paper flowers, and if you shook a branch of the tree, the flowers like confetti would shower on you, and you would feel like, as if you were in a romantic film scene, singing a song.

And yes, that is where she actually saw a film shoot too. The heroine of the film, who was a famous actress, was carrying a beautiful white pomerium dog, playing with it in between the shots, and the dog was being pampered by everyone in the team, and that is where she had decided, no, not to become a heroine, but to keep insisting on getting a dog, may be not such a posh one, but a dog that she had always wanted.

And from there, they had gone on a trek, and had visited Manikaran, close to Kullu Manali, and where they had stayed in an ancient temple inn, created out of a cave, and where after being tired from their climbing and walking on the rough and rocky terrain for the whole day, they had taken soothing warm baths in the hot springs. And after the hot baths, feeling both refreshed and sleepy, she remembers eating the most delicious halwa, the hot and sweet semolina dish, and sidhus, a Pahari savoury dish, like big stuffed dumplings, that had also been cooked in the hot water of those springs.

The travels widened their mind and increased their bank of ideas and information. They also benefited from being in their parent’s and other grown up’s company, listening to them, talk and share information in the evenings. The kids would also get a chance to perform, sing or tell a joke or a story.

And it was during one of such trips when she and her brother had both received diaries to record their experiences, to write about the places they visited and the things they did each day, what her brother has continued to do, writing a page in his diary every night, but writing a diary remained something that she couldn’t continue!

She was not into writing then, but she always loved to read. At that stage, her reading was still limited to the library books, and the children magazines, however, due to her father’s talks about the writers he had read, or was reading, quoting English writers, Sufi saints, Urdu poets, ideas were already pushing in, instigating her imagination. So, she was always dreaming up stories, though the stories she ‘wrote’, and the dialogue that she continued to have with her imaginary characters, were mainly happening within her, in her imagination.

Their older brother, who had started to read books, beyond the children’s book section, would tell them stories from the books that he read; mainly fiction, and detective stories, that fascinated her.

He was a great storyteller too, and every evening the kids couldn’t wait to sit with him, in his room, and listen to the next episode of Vijay Jasoos! They couldn’t wait to listen to the latest of the fascinating triumphs of an Indian fictional detective, with a captivating, charming character, made even more so, by their own inhouse narrator dramatizing the dialogue, bringing variation in his voice and injecting funny and contextual stuff from his side.

He was planning to be a doctor, and the little girl knew that he would be a great doctor, as he would always charm and entertain his patients, that they would forget their pain and misery in his presence, just as she did!

The younger brother was still not sure what career he would chose, but he knew that he didn’t want to be a doctor, or a professor, but may be an engineer of some sort, but then their trip to the surrounding orchards, inspired him to become a trained, educated agriculturist. Their father’s friend, Dr Jogi who was the director of horticulture in Himachal, was the inspiration behind this decision, as it was with him that the family had visited places like Chakkar dairy, and then Gutkar, the horticultural sites quite close to Mandi, where a joint horticultural program between Himachal and Germany had been underway.

In early 1960s, an Indo-German horticulture agreement had taken place, under which a few animal husbandry projects, dairies and orchards were being developed with support from Germany. The German horticulturists who would bring their machinery and advanced agriculture techniques would come and stay in these places to educate and support the local farmers. They would work with the local farmers, to produce more milk, and to grow more and better fruit and vegetables. The Germans in comparison to Indians, were considered more focused and hardworking as they were able to work harder and longer than the Himachali farmers whom they were helping. The local farmers were more lay back, and content with what they could do using ancient techniques and tools, and they presumably lacked vision, ambition, and motivation.

There was a story that Dr Jogi had told their father about a lazy Himachali farmer, who didn’t want to work very hard even for himself. A German was working alongside this Himachali farmer, to teach him and help him, and how after a few hours of hard work, in which the German didn’t stop even for lunch, but this Himachali farmer folding his hands begged the German “Saab chutti kab dega?” “Sir, when will you give me leave to go home for lunch?”

And their father would never tire of telling this story for years to come!

Ullu Bata, the fool, it was his farm and he is asking the German for chutti, leave to go home for lunch!”

He would use such stories, and anecdotes to inspire the kids to achieve their potential, and not be lazy, or shirk hard work.

Well, the younger brother now wanted to own a farm in Himachal, growing his own fruit and vegetable and tending animals for milk.  One of the places where he wanted to stay and work after his study, was Gutkar, a small farming town, quite close to Mandi where the kids used to go for day trips.

And this was also the place where the little girl fell in love, with a lamb, a small cotton ball, with large shiny eyes, stumbling around in the green pastures, and she had spent the whole afternoon, cuddling it, and feeding it soft grass. Then, in the afternoon, she wouldn’t leave without it, as she wanted to keep it forever with her. She wanted to take it to Mandi with her but was then tricked by the farmer, the owner of the farm, who said that she could adopt the lamb, and name it, so when she came next time, she could find it. They would take care of it, keeping it just like that for her, a small cotton ball with shiny eyes!

But next time when they went back after a couple of months, she couldn’t find her pet lamb, it was lost in the herd, all grown up. They gave her another little lamb to play with, but after a couple of such times, she wouldn’t be tricked any more, and that day, she cried and cried for the loss of her friend, realising that things change with time, animals and children grow up, people move away, places and priorities change, and that time flies and people forget, they move on.

And soon, they were also going to move, to yet another town in Himachal, as their time in Mandi was up. They would be going to Nahan, where her father was going to be the principal of the Degree college, and the Evening college, and the Arts college, wearing all these different hats, and doing a fantastic job.

Moving away from Mandi was going to be hard, but not so, as she had also grown up in the two- and a-bit years’ time, she had spent in Mandi, she was at the high school now!

No. 33. Bilaspur: Tokens of friendships & lessons of growing up

It seemed odd, almost unreal, but then it was real too, quite solid, as she was there, yet also a bit strange, yes, that is how the little girl felt about waking up in her new house in Bilaspur.

She had only arrived in Bilaspur the previous evening with her Papaji, and Biji, and her two brothers from Solan. So the house, in which she had woken up that morning, was not her familiar house, and it was in a strange, and a new town too.

But already the curtains, which were hanging on the windows and the doors, and her Biji’s embroidered table clothes and cushions scattered everywhere; and her knitted tea cosey displayed on a familiar wooden tray from Kashmir, one of Biji’s treasured possessions, along with their family photo, hanging, almost exactly at the same part of the wall, were all set exactly as these things used to be in their house in Solan!

Then Biji’s Tanpura, the music instrument, on which she practised classic music every morning, was right there in this house, in the corner of the living room, where the two wooden carved elephants with their trunks upward, were eyeing each other with their beady eyes, from the two opposite sides of the living room; and Papaji’s mudgals, his exercise dumb bells, proudly displayed on the back veranda, yes, everything was so familiar, and yet the surroundings were not, so strange. Eerie!

It seemed as if the cover of an old book had been put on a new book, though the story once you read it, was the same soothing tale, like a story told by her grandma, her Bibbeeji, on a cold winter night.

Papaji had been the principal of a college in Solan for a couple of years, and now he had come to run a college in Bilaspur, the new Bilaspur, as the old Bilaspur, where they had lived before going to Solan, had disappeared. And this was actually the case almost every alternate year, as he would get transferred after a couple of years, like nomads, wanderers!

And their nomadic life style would mean that they would keep moving houses, taking the curtains, linen, and other paraphernalia from one house to the other, and Biji would set up everything in the new place so quickly, and beautifully, that when kids would wake up on their first morning in a new town, and wander around in their new surroundings, they would see some familiar things to take solace from.

And it was something Biji would keep doing all her life! Even when she went for a few weeks to one of her children’s houses, or went to Simla for summer holidays, for a couple of months, along with her personal clothes and knitwear, some of her decoration stuff, a couple of cushion covers, table clothes, napkin sets, plus a set of her own white sheets, and towels would travel with her.

Papaji, on the other hand went straight into the new surroundings, just plunged in, exploring areas for his morning walks, visiting nearby places, and making friends with all the shopkeepers. And in Bilaspur too, that is exactly what happened with all the shopkeepers on the Mandi road, the grocer who without any order from the house would send his man with fresh desi ghee, the fresh and newly ground maize flour, pine nuts and almonds if freshly arrived from Kinnor that week, and the green grocer, who would keep his choicest fresh cucumbers, carrots and cauliflowers, and green peas coming from Simla every day; then watermelons, and corn cobs, when in season, for him; or the news agent, who made sure that Sharma Sahib, got his daily morning newspapers every day, early morning, before anyone else in the town did.

The only convenience store/cum bakery walla in the town, would send samples of the latest arrivals, packets of toffees, biscuits, fruit bread, and once a lemon squash set, six glasses and a jug with beautiful yellow carving on the sides, tea pots, cups, and, trays, even a new doll, to Sharma Sahib’s house, though to the utmost disappointment of the kids, most of these were duly returned with thanks by Biji the same afternoon.

The kids, especially the little girl had no idea, that whatever was being delivered or picked up from these shops, was going to be paid for, as the concept of money had not entered her understanding of these transactions, of giving and taking things from shops. She had not realised, as yet, that there was always a bill that would be settled by her father on the first of each month.

So, a few months into their stay in Bilaspur, both the little girl and her older brother, who was only two and a half years older than her, and still a child himself, would start to get packets of biscuits, toffees, bubble gum bars, rusks and fruit cakes to eat with friends at the school, or balls, marbles, and a bat set to take to the playground. Once the girl even got a beautiful necklace set made with pink glass beads, and a couple of shiny bracelets, to give presents to her class friends.

And, each time, when they picked up something from a shop, the brother would just say to the shop keeper, nonchalantly, “isko likh lo‘please write it down, and walk off coolly, just as the grown-ups did, and to the shock of their father, the kids accumulated quite a substantial bill, almost as big, if not larger than the grocery bill for the entire family for that month. Papaji had to sit the kids down to explain the concept of billing, Udhar, and Naqad, paying later or paying with hard cash, but PAYING!

What a bore, the kids must have thought, about the grown ups’ world, whereas in their world everything was glittering gold, and free!!

They always got transferred during the July August holidays, so when the holidays finished, the kids would be exempt from the homework for the two month holiday, as they would come to a new town.

But then it also meant that it would be a new school too, and something the little girl dreaded the most was, yes, the first day of her new school.

She had enjoyed buying a new school bag, and a couple of chalk pencils, saleties, to write on her slate, her chalk board, and a new takhti, the wooden board, that the kids used to carry to school every day to write on with a sharpened bamboo pen, dipped in liquid black ink, it was supposed to be good to improve their handwriting. The sharpened nib of the bamboo pen was the secret and ink had to be of perfect consistency. Then each day, after school, they would need to bring the takhti home to show to their parents, their handy work, and then the takhti was to be cleaned, washed and painted again with the yellowish white clay like matter, gatchi, to write on ‘a clean slate’ the next day.

Well, the day arrived, her first day at the new school and her bag was ready. It was a big bag, and quite empty, as she had only a slate and a couple of chalk pencils in it, so she had stuffed her father’s dictionary in it to give it a shape. The dictionary would remain missing for many months, making her bag quite heavy, but her bag and her lunch were going to be carried by the peon who was going to take her and her older brother to school.

She was not happy, and was crying about something, as actually she did not want to go to school. And then the most amazing thing happened, something which was going to completely change everything for the little girl.

It was time to leave for the school, when a young boy of her age, came around, with his mother almost running behind him with his bag, so he could go to school with them. They lived in a house a few hundred meters away from their house, and this is how she found a friend right next door!

His name was Bhau, short for Bushan, or little boy in Pahari, as his own family called him, but the girl and her brothers started calling him Maon, meow like a cat’s sound, because he had deep blueish green eyes. His father also worked at the college and they lived close by, and their families, and especially the kids were to become lifelong friends.

On the way to school, her brother walked ahead of them, as the peon, Tegaram, held the hands of the two younger kids, the girl and Maon, making them walk on his both sides, and walk fast. Trying to have a conversation, and catch their breath, they were almost running down the hill, as the principal’s house, called kothi, was at the top of the hill.

Maon was telling her that he had only come back from his holiday the previous evening, as his family had gone to Mandi to his grandmother’s house for the two month holiday, and that is why they had not come to meet the girl and her family earlier.

He told her, that he knew everyone at the school, and had many friends, and the teacher was very nice, and that she did not need to be afraid, as he was going to be with her.

And at the school, just being with him, and then sitting together in the class, made it easy for her to settle down. He was in the same class, the year two, at the school, that was good, and he spoke in a different accent with a pahari tinge like the locals. That was even better!!

And then Maon had told everyone that she was his friend, and by the end of the day, she had many other friends. One of them shared her lunch with her, and they started to swap the food they brought to school, and the girl learnt to enjoy, maize flour roties with the galgal pickle, the thick, spongy bright yellow skinned lemons.

The little girl had also become friends with Maon’s sisters. He had three older sisters, who doted upon him, and since the little girl became Maon’s friend, they loved her too. Otherwise, they were closer in age to her brothers, who being similar age, became the best friends, playing together after school, right into the late evenings.

Once, when Biji went to Solan for a week to give her final practical exam to complete her B.Ed., the little girl did not mind, as Maon’s older sister came and stayed with her for those nights. They became very close friends, and the little girl, found a big sister, which was quite different from being just the only girl in a trio.

Brothers were great, and they loved her a lot, but having an older sister was so different, softer and more easy. Her younger brother, especially, was a bit rough with her, though, they were also the best of mates too, as being closer in age, they did most things together. Their oldest brother who was much older than both of them, had his own life, his hobbies and friends, that usually did not include his younger siblings, though he used to tell them interesting stories that he would read.

He used to read quite a lot, finishing a couple of books from his high school library almost every day, and once he got in trouble with his English teacher, who was also in charge of the library, and she refused to give him the books he wanted to read. So, to spite her, the brother and his friends opened the back of the book cupboards using some device and ‘stole’ a few books to read in class.

When the teacher saw them reading the books that she had refused them, openly in her class, she went to the headmaster, and the brother and his friends were severely punished. They were all suspended for a week, but their father refused to intervene and asked the brother to remember this incident as a lesson of discipline, as “you should always follow the rules”, he told his oldest and a bit rebellious son.

Though, the rebellious son believed in breaking unjust rules, and the most important rule that he made after this incident was, “not to get caught while breaking these rules!” And surely, there were a few of such ‘breaking the rules’ type incidents, but no one had to know about these adventures, or sometimes, misadventures.

However, once this brother, along with the same three friends, and Maon’s uncle, did something, which actually shook up not his own family but that of every one of them. After their year 10 exam, the boys decided to go trekking up to Punjab from Bilaspur. After crossing the river in a boat, they started walking through the dense bush area of this hilly region to reach the border where Himachal and Punjab met. It took them more than 10 hours to reach Keeratpur, which is in Punjab, and then three hours by bus to come back, and then they took the boat back to Bilaspur. As luck would have been, someone had seen them leaving by boat that morning, but then the boat was not seen returning. The families of all these boys spent a hell of a time during those few hours, as the rumour of the boys ‘gone missing’ had started to circulate. They finally came back safe and sound to their worried and very ‘upset’ parents after ‘being missing’ for more than 15 hours that day.

The girl found out about this all much later.

The principal’s house, the Kothi, in which they lived had quite a bit of land around. A big part of the land was actually the botanic garden of the college. Once, the gardener gave the kids some seedlings which encouraged all the children to start their own vege- patches, to grow vegetables, such as cucumbers, tomatoes, and green peas. They all enjoyed working in their own teams, and planting vegetables in their different patches, for example the younger brother and Maon’s youngest sister became the best pals. Their cucumbers were the best and the tastiest of all, but they would not share their ware with others, and the little ones, who were not having much luck in farming, had to sometimes use other techniques to taste these tasty crunchy cucumbers.

Their mothers had also become good friends, and would spend some time together each day, especially in the afternoons, the perfect time for women to catch up, sitting in the sun, enjoying fruit chat, made of cut guava, and cucumber and apple slices doused with lemon juice and ginger and chili chutney, or in summer in one of the kitchens, making lemonade and chick pea flour snacks, variety of savian, on a machine which spitted out noodle like shapes of different thickness.

They would all play cards too, usually the game was kotpeas, the trump card game, and the kids and grown-ups would join in to form pairs. Maon’s grandmother, Ammaji was a champion of this game, and everyone wanted to be her partner. She always won, and swore on everyone’s life, that she did not cheat!

Both the families had come really close, with every one of them having a friendship which was to continue all their lives!

Sometimes, the little girl and her brothers would stay at Maon’s house till quite late, almost waiting to be invited to share their dinner. They loved to eat there, as the food was quite different and more tasty than the simple Punjabi food, daal, roti and sabzi, Indian flat bread, daal and dry or curried vegetables, cooked for dinner in their own house.

After a few of these times of missing their dinner time at home, and overstaying at Maon’s house, Papaji had to give the kids another good lesson to teach them the importance of eating at home and not overstaying their welcome. A lesson which would stay with the little girl all her life, along with the lesson of paying for things she wanted. She also learnt appreciating hospitality and love that others showered on her!

Yes, it was in Bilaspur, she learned a lot, and also grew up to be a happy girl. Having friends was something great for her, so comforting.

She had started to settle down, losing her uncertainties. It was to a large extent, due to Maon and his family, that her fear and timidness had started to disappear, and she was becoming quite carefree, talkative almost jocular.

And since then, friends would have a special place in her life, and she was also lucky that she always found good friends, everywhere she went, and she always made efforts to maintain their friendship.

Well, in Bilaspur, to have friends, both at school, and then after school, it was heavenly!

All the kids from the families who lived around spent a lot of time together. Whatever the season, they would all get together to play, the whole afternoon, late into the evening, playing games such as: pithtuunch neench, stapu, simple games, with marbles, geetei, even climbing up the trees, and then coming home, all tired but still excited, in the evening, and could hardly wait for the next day.

On some Sundays, they would start early, going into the bush, or the jungle, that was still part of this small town, with each one taking a small packet of their own food, and walk into the surrounding wilderness, looking for natural sights, that they would just see, admire and enjoy, as no one had a camera. They would just keep walking into the heart of the jungle, climbing rocks, walking through the dense bush, finding hidden cold water springs in the bush, to quench their thirst, as well as picking wild fruit, especially ransont, blue black berries, rasbharies, wild figs, jamuns, to satisfy their hunger.

If they had a grown up with them, they would go hunting for khajjar khopa, which was a big fruit that grew inside the top part of the trunk of small pineapple like wild trees. The trunk of the tree, however, had to be completely destroyed to get to the heart of the fruit, which tasted heavenly.

It was usually, however, only when the young man who worked as domestic help at Maon’s house, came with them bringing his axe to collect dry wood. He would usually light a fire in the open, and they would enjoy roasted challies, corn cobs, or green cholia, the tender black gram pods, beetroot or potatoes, and enjoy themselves.

They would have a big camp fire at their Kothi in January, at the time of the winter festival, Lohri. The girl’s father invited his whole staff, and the whole evening was spent in singing and eating roasted peanuts and their mother’s famous sesame seed and sugar chikki, and playing games, such as antrakshari, a competition of singing songs, in which each new song has to start from the last letter of the previous song.

Even though, only grown-ups played the game, the little girl could sing most of the songs, and her oldest brother could play the tune of every song on his flute, to the pride of their parents.

One Lohri, as the girl remembers, the fire lasted the whole night, though the party finished sometime around midnight. In the morning, the girl woke up early to check the fire, as they had put some beetroot in it to roast slowly, and she saw her father and mother sitting near the fire, having a chit chat, with cups of tea in their hands, there must have been enough heat in the ashes to boil a tea pot. Feeling happy, content and lazy, she went back to sleep with a smile on her face. It was one of her happiest birthdays, and that morning, her world seemed complete!

She was happy in Bilaspur, as life in this small town in Himachal was a marvelous long procession of fun filled activities, having campfires, going to picnics, and then hiking, bush walking, especially encouraged by the girl’s father, who was an enthusiastic morning walker.

Once all the kids went for a picnic, and the brother, who, being the oldest, was the leader of the kids’ group too, took the newest gadget that their father had brought from Chandigarh, the pressure cooker with him. Pressure cookers were still very new, almost uncommon in Himachal, at that time, and no one knew much about them, so if anyone bought a pressure cooker, the manual that came with it, had to be read and followed to its exact words to cook something.

So, not to worry, the girl’s older brother who hardy knew anything about cooking and almost nothing about pressure cookers, took the manual, as well as the table clock with him to make sure they followed the instructions and the cooking time which needed to be exact. He had brought some raw rice and daal from home, so they could cook some khichri, a dish made by boiling rice and daal together, with some ghee, and salt.

The kids sat around waiting for the khichri, but on the makeshift camp fire, which was more smoke, and less heat, it took a very long time for the pressure to build, but before the cooker could have enough pressure to whistle, the alarm went off, as the head chef, the leader of the group, had timed the cooking time, according to the manual. The rice and daal mixture, which had barely mixed, was still quite raw, but the kids enjoyed their lunch, with each one saying it was very delicious, though the little girl ended up having a stomach-ache afterwards.

These stomach-aches kept revisiting her many times, as the older kids had built a Cubby house, a play house to play ghar ghar, ‘house house’ in the backyard and every time, they got together, they would cook something there, and all the younger kids had to eat these foods, as the older kids would be playing fathers and mothers, and feeding them with great love and concentration.

While the kids were enjoying their days in Bilaspur, the parents were busy in their own routine. Papaji was busy at the college, one of the very new colleges in Himachal, which required quite an organisation, related to the administration, teaching and learning, and boarding facilities, and then the management of students and lecturers’ issues. But he always found time in the mornings to go for his walks, and most days would play badminton in the afternoons.

There used to be a couple of badminton courts in the college’s playground, where he would play with some of his staff members, and also students. He had a great relationship with his students and encouraged everyone to reach their potential. Two of his best students, who both came from nearby villages, would follow him to his next posting, to attend the college there, where he was going to be the principal. They would become part of his life, and he theirs, especially one of these boys, R.D., was to become a part of their family, taking his place among them, as their third brother.

In the afternoons, many students would come back to the college and play a variety of games, Badminton, Volleyball, and Kabbadi. Not many girls participated in sport, but if one did, that particular girl would become quite ‘famous’, like a heroine. But being a heroine was not always considered good. Girls had to remain demure, and quiet as to be famous was not the aim. Still being a hero was OK, and it was the dream of every boy to be famous!

Yes, Bilaspur like most of India, had this dual standard, when it came to gender differences, girls were not allowed to do so many things, that the boys could easily do. Yes, and this familiar concept of typically Indian “hero and heroine” was reflected in Indian cinema too! And there was a cinema in Bilaspur, where a couple of times, the kids went to see a movie.

They were allowed to see movies, especially if they had a grown-up with them, for example, their older brother, and Maon’s uncle, who had come to live with them for a few months, or the uncle of one of another set of children from another family would take them.

With great excitement, once they all went to see a movie, most probably it was called ‘Gharana’, a family drama. But that evening, it started to rain, and the second half of the movie was cancelled, but then they all went back to cinema the following evening to see the second half of the movie. For many days to come, all the girls in the group kept walking and talking like the heroine, keeping their chunnie, the long colourful scarf, at a particular angle around their neck. They all wanted to be heroines!

The little girl remembered a song from the movie and surprised everyone by singing the complete song, “Dadi Ma dadi ma, man jao”, oh grandma, please be happy and stop sulking!” the very next day!

Movie songs thus had started to replace or were being added to the repertoire of her songs and nursery rhymes, such as “Sadak bani hei lambi choddi..” the road is long and wide, but you should cross wisely or “Machali jal ki rani hei” the fish is the queen of water, leave her there, the rhymes her mother had taught her.

She loved to sing, and so did her younger brother, who was even better at singing, but was a bit shy. Their parents sang too! And the older brother could also sing, but he preferred to play instruments. His mouth organ of old Bilaspur days had long since changed into a flute, that he played beautifully, soulfully, especially the patriotic songs, that were on everyone’s lips that year, due to Chinese aggression in 1962.

The month of October, which usually brings the Indian festive season, that year, had brought a great shock for everyone. As India’s friendly neighbour, China had attacked India over some border dispute, and India which had never in its thousands of years history attacked another country, was forced to respond. Prime Minister Nehru, who had promoted his Panchsheel principles of brotherhood, the pact of mutual co-existence between the two neighbouring countries, had to announce war, and suddenly the very world of people, living a life of complacency, since India’s independence, 15 years ago, was shaken up.

Young men started to be recruited, and women were beseeched to sacrifice their sons, and brothers, and then they were also appealed to donate money or their jewellery to buy arms to fight the enemy. Songs were composed and played all day long to encourage Indians to do so.

Functions were organised in different towns, cities, and villages, all over India, where speeches were made, and lectures were given, and patriotic songs were played to bring awareness to people about this cause.

In Bilaspur too, a big function was organised in the college. And at this function, Biji gave one of her four gold bangles, that the little girl took to the podium, and presented to the governor of Himachal for the national fund for army. She felt really grown up that day when the governor shook her hand and said, “thank you for your contribution”! Feeling teary but excited, and replying “Jai Hind” Long Live India, she saluted the national flag.

Yes, those were the days, when children saluted the tricolour national flag, the Tiranga jhanda, and sang patriotic songs; climbed up the trees for excitement, they played unsupervised, and played simple games with sticks and stones; they enjoyed going for bush walk picnics with just a rolled up ‘paronthi’ in their hand, and walked miles to find water to drink in the jungle, which itself was the major part of their excitement.

Once the little girl fell from a tree and her forehead just split and there was blood everywhere, and she needed to be rushed to the hospital to get stitches, but the doctor had run out of the right stuff, so he just put a tight bandage on her forehead, with a lot of tincture, and sent her home. The wound eventually healed, but it left a big scar on her forehead, a reminder of the best days of her life, her childhood!

Yes, those were the best, the golden days. There was so much of love and care and enjoyment that the kids, especially the little girl were having from the friends all around, that Bilaspur days would always be the most bright days of their childhood.

But then, the time in Bilaspur came to an end, and their father got transferred again, this time to Mandi. The world the kids had created around them, was shattered, and with tears and sobs shaking up their very selves, the kids were to say goodbye to those they were separating from, their best friends ever.

The morning of their departure, though there had not been a storm the previous night, it was discovered that the Cubby house walls had fallen down and the roof of the house had collapsed, as if nature (or may be someone from their group?) had literally brought a perfect tragic ending to one of the sunniest periods of their childhood, so far!

Yes, the sunniest, the best time ever, that they had spent in Bilaspur, only two years, but a life time of memories to keep them warm and nourished; and this period from 1961 July to 1963 July, remained the best time of their childhood, all due to the friendships they created and the relations they made there.

And since then, especially for the little girl, having a friend, making a friend, finding a friend has been most important, at every new place she went to, to give her confidence, to help her settle down, whether it was another new school in a new town, or a new college, or in another phase of her life, when she was not that little anymore; her first time away from home, at a hostel in university, and then her first job in a strange city, everywhere, it was having a friend with her which helped her. Even when she would move to a new country, friends were to remain an integral part of her life. And she was even going to get married to someone who had been her best friend for many years.

But that will be much later!

No. 32. Solan: The house with fifty windows, the lost jam sandwich and the red rose!

It was Solan, another small hilly town in Himachal, where the family had moved after the little girl’s father got transferred from Bilaspur. They lived in a big house, a bit longish, with two verandas, one at the front and the second at the back, running the length of the whole house, and there were almost fifty windows in these two verandas.

Solan, situated halfway between Chandigarh and Simla, was surrounded by thousands of pine trees growing on lower Simla hills. Its pure and healthy, pine infused air attracted many visitors, some looking for a place to recuperate after an illness, others looking to spend their month-long summer holidays away from the summer heat of Punjab or Delhi at a hill station, that was not as expensive as Simla.

And as she remembers it, there were usually new people, each week, walking on the road, doing their small purchases in Solan’s main bazaar, that was right in front of the house, and was visible from its front windows.

The house was on the first floor of a building adjacent to the town’s newly established library, with a common forked staircase separating the two, and perhaps she borrowed her first story book from this library. With a library next door, all the three kids were bound to read a lot, especially her love affair with books must have started there only!

The whole building was (most probably) owned by someone called Lalaji who always sat in his shop on the ground floor. Wearing a big round turban on his head, he was always counting money, mainly coins, while a young boy would be putting them in small piles. The coins fascinated the children who would stand there, mesmerised by the shiny silver, brass and nickel pieces of different shapes and sizes, being sorted in homogenised piles.  

Once, the girl found a shining coin outside the shop that must have rolled out of one of the piles. She wanted to quickly grab it and run, but suddenly Lalaji saw her, and called her to say, “How was school?” or some such thing, and she quickly ran away, her cheeks turning red and her breathing fast, as if someone had caught her doing something wrong. She felt so hot that once she got home, she must have drunk two three glasses of cold tap water.

The tap water was cool and delicious, still! They did not have a fridge, as it was not needed, and not many people even knew about it being a thing. Summers were quite pleasant in Solan, and there were no fans in the houses as the air used to be quite cool.

And in winters, though it was quite cold, there were no heaters, or electric blankets either. People kept themselves warm by wrapping themselves in Himachali pashmina shawls, and blankets, and everyone would wear colourful knitted sweaters and beanies to go out, and use their blankets and quilts in the evenings.

Most families used to eat their meals in the kitchen, sitting around the fire. Some houses also used Angheethies, the small iron framed square pots, in which soft coal was burned, and which could be moved around to warm other rooms.

In their house, the Angheethi was usually taken to the living room, where the family spent a lot of time. This room was actually a part of the front veranda, which had been converted to make a dining area, and there were some armed chairs to entertain visitors.

Papaji used to put a smaller Angheethi on the dining table too as at dinner time in winter, he would heat some ghee on it to spread on the hot roties being delivered fresh from the kitchen. The ghee used to be in a brass bowl, called batti, a bigger version of a katori, or a side bowl, but smaller than a donga, or a serving bowl. The batti was as if, just made to heat ghee, in which sometimes, Papaji would put some jaggery, and then crumble the last roti in this concoction, to make a ball of wheat, jaggery and the ghee, a special dish that was his invention, he called it gadoda. It would be gooey, soft and sweet, and was distributed among the kids, at the end of the meal, as a sweet dish.

Jaggery, or gur and ghee, were supposed to be good to eat in winter, along with the dry fruits and nuts, which were also considered good to eat in winter, sultanas, dates, almond and especially walnuts, that grew around Solan, as they created warmth in the body.

And there was yet another way of keeping warm in the little girl’s house, it was brandy, yes it was used every second day. After giving them a bath on alternative evenings, Biji would give all the kids glasses of warm milk with honey, and to that she would add a few drops of brandy, after which, the kids would sleep snuggled in cotton filled quilts.

This brandy, most probably came from Solan’s famous Mohan Meakins Brewery, where (other than the alcoholic drinks such as brandy, beer, and whisky), apple cider or the Himachali apple juice was also brewed/produced, aptly named “Gold Coin”, that was also a regular drink in their house.

Once, Papaji brought a full crate of these bottles home, and insisted that the kids have a glass daily. The little girl still remembers its sweet and stale taste, that she did not enjoy, but her oldest brother loved it.

Being the youngest, she used to be a bit gullible, and was an easy prey for her brothers’ tricks, who were both older than her. She was also quite timid. One day, her brother told her if she drank the whole glass of this juice, she would get dizzy.

The girl, since she did not like the taste of the cider any way, requested him to finish her share of the amber juice too, and he, obligingly helped himself to the whole bottle. She waited to see him get dizzy, but he didn’t. “I am very strong”, he had told her many times, and she believed him. After all he was already 12, while she was just going to be 6.

She later realised, that actually he might have loved the idea of drinking directly from the cider bottle. It used to have a golden twist top, and looked just like a beer bottle, so he might have felt a bit risqué, or brave, drinking directly from the brown bottle. May be he had seen this in a movie as there used to be a cinema in Solan. But the girl had not seen any movies as yet.

For her, the most entertaining thing was at the back of the house as there was the railway line, going through the wilderness. From the back windows, they could see the railway line running between Kalka and Simla, and at a particular time during each day, one train used to pass through Solan. The kids used to run to the back veranda to wait for it and would then wave at the train.

Once, the little girl, after spending a long time prising out the walnut kernels out of their stone hard shells, had collected a small stash of walnuts to eat later on. Something that kids used to do, in winter, besides pealing roasted peanuts in shells!

But then the train had come and the kids had run to wave at the train. The little girl forgot the nuts in her fist, and opened her hand to wave at the train, and, she threw all the walnut kernels out of the window. The fruit of her hard labour was thus lost in a second, she cried for more than an hour, while her brother kept eating his share of kernels, taking one by one out of his pocket, and not sharing even one with her.

Poor girl could not be consoled, till her Papaji came home, and gave her some almonds, or cashew nuts, that he used to keep in his pocket. He also brought a smile on her face by saying that Solan walnuts were useless as these walnuts had, ‘more walls and less nuts’ in them!

Through such casual use of English language, to explain, comment on routine things, her father would create context for her to learn English and that she really enjoyed. And slowly, along with Punjabi and Hindi, English had been becoming a part of her language from an early age.

Well, that day, she really begged her mother to knit a jumper with pockets for her so she could put the nuts in them. And most probably, her mother did knit her an over sized jumper as, at some stage, she remembers having a jumper with pockets and carrying nuts in her pockets, it also had a matching beanie with a pom pom, that remained her signature attire in winter for many years.

The kids had to walk to school, and cross the big wide road, the Mall road. Yes, there was a Mall road in Solan, which was actually the ‘Solan to Simla’ road. As compared to these days, it was hardly a busy road. Only a few trucks and a couple of buses used to pass through Solan daily. Still, as she remembers, it was a very wide road, and quite dangerous to walk on, and crossing it used to be quite a feat for the young children, who had to cross the road twice a day as their schools were on the other side of the road.

Once a couple of small puppies trying to cross the road were almost run over by a truck. The kids who were seeing it from their front veranda, the girl and her younger brother, both shrieked in unison, “Ohhhh poor puppy, ohhhhh!” and shut their eyes tightly.

But as luck had intervened, one of the puppies was saved, because clinging to his life with his four little paws, it had flattened himself on the ground and the truck had just passed over its flattened body without even scratching it. Its sibling however, was not as lucky.

The girl had run over to the middle of the road to pick up the trembling doggy, ‘rescuing’ her first dog to bring home.

Without her parents knowing, the girl hid the puppy in her room, under her bed at night. She had fed it some cold milk, and biscuits and had already put a ribbon around its neck, and named it, as she wanted to keep it with her for ever, but the puppy was discovered in the middle of the night, when it started yelping for its mother.

The next day, early morning, the puppy was duly returned to its brood, and this routine kept being repeated a few times for the next few years, as the girl kept bringing stray dogs home, and her mother kept making her return them from wherever they would have been ‘rescued’.

After many years, finally, when the girl would be much older, almost 14, and studying in year 8 in another town, Nahan, she would be allowed to keep one of her rescued dogs, whom she would name Lucy. They would become great friends, and Lucy will travel with the family to yet another new town. The girl and the family would leave for yet another town after a year or so, but Lucy would stay in that town, Una, forever. She would be known as the famous ‘Lucy the principal’s dog’ .

Lucy, who was, the most beautiful Alsatian dog, with the most expressive loving golden eyes and a golden shiny coat and the thickest tail, one had ever seen on a dog, would become the darling pet of three different house-holds in Una, and at whose death, some other family whom, the girl did not even know, would cry bitterly, but that is another story.

In Solan, the girl was only 5 year and a few months old. She had just started in year one at the local primary school. It was a new school, in a new town, where she was yet to make friends. She had been feeling a bit unsure of herself. Being new in the town did not help either, as she was constantly made aware of the fact that she did not belong. Though she wore the same school uniform, like other children did, but somehow, she stood out.

Coming from a Punjabi speaking family, she could not speak like her classmates, who all spoke in Hindi, with a Pahari tinge. Moreover, still not used to being called by her school name Neera, the very first week, she had missed her roll call a couple of times and had thus become the laughing stock of students in her class. She was a bit chubby too, and quite clumsy in her mannerism, hence was an easy target for pranks for her classmates, especially, as most of the girls in her class, were a bit older than her, or were just more mature.

One day, in her short break, when she opened her lunch box to eat her snack, she could not find her jam sandwich in it, perhaps her mother had forgotten to put it in her box, or perhaps, someone from her class had taken it, but that meant she did not eat anything in her short break.

She was quite confused and hungry, as her mother had always packed a jam sandwich for her short break, and one paronthi, Indian flat bread, for lunch in her small satchel.

After the break, when the class had resumed, she couldn’t wait for her lunch break, and started to eat her lunch in her class. One of the girls sitting next to her, perhaps who had actually taken the sandwich, threatened to dob her and tell the teacher, or something on these lines.

The little girl begged her not to tell the teacher. The other girl spared her on the promise that she would give the jam sandwich to her every day. And for many weeks to come, she kept giving her jam sandwich to that girl, and never said anything to the teacher, or to Biji, her mother.

Those days, Biji was very busy, as she had joined the college in Solan, she was doing her degree and was studying hard preparing for her B.A. exams. The girl remembers, how much her mother had to study, sometimes quite reluctantly.

Biji wanted to take care of her children and wanted to cook fresh paronthies for them every morning, and jam sandwiches for her little daughter, who loved jam sandwiches.

But Papaji was quite strict with Biji when it came to her studies, so when she had her exams, he would not let her enter the kitchen or do any cooking. She also had to go to the college every day or sit in a closed room to prepare for her exams.

Her subjects were hard too, and because she was doing classic music, she needed to practise a lot. She would sit and practise her notes every morning, and practise singing the ragas. Her sweet singing accompanied by the “tun tun” of her tanpura, the four-string instrument made of shiny red wood, a bit funny, its long stem sitting on a big fat bottom, always woke up the children, caressing them, with a nice feeling.

Biji’s younger sister, Teeshi had been living with them at that moment, as she was also studying at the college. Papaji, who wanted everyone in the family to study, had always encouraged the members of their extended families to get higher education. Teeshi was doing her F.A. at that time, on her way to following her older sisters’ footsteps, as all of them had at least done a degree.

In Solan, the two sisters had created a bit of sensation, as both sang very well, Panjabi songs, gazals, filmi songs. Their Punjabi duet, that the kids still remember, became quite famous in Solan, as at the college function that year, they had sung the song “Nikka Mota Bajra“, a beautiful Panjabi song about two lovers’ tiffs and declarations of undying love for each other, taking the small cultural/social scene of Solan by storm.

Well, both the sisters were also busy in studying hard, at times they couldn’t be home, so when the kids came back from school, there was no one to look after them, other than their servant, Ganesh, who would give them some milk and biscuits. But a woman’s motherly care and attention, which was crucial, especially for the little girl, was missing.

So perhaps because of this reason, when Papaji went on a work tour to Chandigarh, as he used toevery couple of months, he brought his mother, Bibbeeji who had moved from their village to Chandigarh, to stay with them in Solan for a while, so the children had someone at home when they came back from school.

The kids loved their grandma, Bibbee! She was quite a magnificent lady, quite forceful, a bit formidable, but she made delicious paronthies, and told them many stories in the evenings, that they just loved, but still the girl missed her mother the most. The time they used to spend together, doing little mother daughter things, had been so precious, and she missed that, more than her cooking. More than anything, she missed being able to run to her mother after school and tell her everything.

She did not like Solan, she was not enjoying school, and she wanted to tell her mother that. She was feeling lonely, she wanted to tell her that. And she did not like her classmates, she wanted to tell her that. But then the month of January came, and things changed.

Her birthday came. The little girl had not invited any one from her class, as she felt she did not have any friends there.

But without her knowledge, Biji had organised to have a party, which remained a lifelong tradition for the whole family, a party on the little girl’s birthday, even when she would not be that little!

Almost all of her class mates came for the party, and enjoyed the sweet and savoury snacks served with Bournvita milk. Biji had also made some jam sandwiches which were really popular, and more sought after than Barfi, so Biji had to make a second lot.

From that day on, things started to change. The girl had a few friends, who were always waiting for her, and a few wanted to sit with her in class. In all these pleasant changes, there was one more thing happening, which bound her to the students in her class more and, through which, finally, she became one of them.

All the students were preparing for their annual school function and the little girl was participating in a group dance, a Pahari folk dance. “Chal mele nun jana meri jindiye“, Let us go to the mela, the folk festival, my love’; She could sing, and was not bad in dancing, and all the girls loved to dance. So working in a group, going through rehearsals, learning steps together, making mistakes, getting scolded by their teacher together, all the girls became a team!

The function was taking place during the local mela, the town fair, Shoolini Mela, which is now a three day event celebrated in Solan every year, and the whole town was abuzz with excitement and activities.

And that year, the fair was going to be even more special, as there was going to be a surprise visitor, people knew someone important was coming, but no one knew “who was coming?”, only the organisers knew.

But then the fair came to an end, and people kept waiting. No one came, and then the sweets were distributed, and finally the program for the day finished, and people started to leave.

Around 3 o’clock, walking home with Biji, the girl was hot, tired and sleepy, and was crying. Suddenly, a car crossed them, then another car and after that a caravan of cars was on the road. She stood there, holding her Biji’s hand, her mouth open, tears in her eyes, hair disheveled, as she had lost one ribbon, when a white car slowed down near her, almost stopping, and a hand came out of an opened window of the car, showering on her flowers, red roses, some real, and some made of paper, and a beautiful sound, “Le Bitiya, here you go little girl!!” which was music to her heart, because as the flowers dropped next to where she was standing, and the car swept the person away, she recognised the person, who was waving at her.

It was Chacha Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India, Pt Jawahar Lal Nehru, who must have been the special person stopping in Solan on his way to Simla. All children loved him, and knew him from his pictures, always wearing a rose bud on his coat, he was known as uncle Nehru, and was revered by children’s families too.

Suddenly, the girl, as if she came out of a trance, started to wave, and clap, as the cars sped away!! She was trembling with excitement, and was happy, so happy, she bent down to pick up the roses.

Most of the paper roses had already been picked up by others, but a small rose bud was still there, and she gracefully picked it up and offered it to her mother, Biji, who hugged her, both had wet eyes, and wide smiles on their faces. It was a unique moment that she was never going to forget, ever, though the friends, she would make in Solan, their names, along with so many things that happened there, she would forget once she left the town.

And there was so much that she would always remember about Solan.

Solan was the town where she grew up, with her life taking shape, her likes and dislikes forming, and this place also gave her a taste of a nomadic existence, travelling from town to town, which would be the life style for her family, though she could never get prepared for it.

It was always heart breaking leaving a known place, leaving behind familiarity, a group of friends, to go to a new place, face new classmates at each new school, who would first resent her strangeness, and then would accept her. Something she would get used to though, as it would keep happening to her, and her brothers for many years to come, as her father would get transferred every two years.

So, that year too, just as she had started to feel at home in Solan, it was time to leave. And the next town, the one after Solan, was going to be Bilaspur again, but the new Bilaspur, where she would learn about life-long friendships, among other things.

No. 31. Old Bilaspur: Kyun bhai kya khudanti: What are you digging: a rat, a King’s jewels, & the golden chickens, all in a dream town!

The girl was 4 years old, and perhaps it was her first week at kindergarten, where she had come with her older brother, whose school was next door. The brother was supposed to have taken her inside the building and leave her there, but he had been too much in a hurry to go and play with his class mates, that he had left her behind, still walking slowly on the main street, looking around for some distractions.

And the little girl had actually, stopped, as she didn’t want to go inside the school building, while there was so much to learn and see outside. She was fascinated by the mound of dirt growing rapidly, right in front of her eyes. Her eyes and her mouth wide open, she whispered to the little rat who was busy in this excavation on the road side, “What are you digging”, “What are you hiding”, remembering the story her father had told her about the 40 thieves and the slow wit villager who had caught them by chance, and won a big award from the king in her father’s village to marry his beautiful sweetheart.

In the story, the villager had been talking to his house mouse at night, “Kyun bhai kya khudanti” meaning “What are you digging”, “what are you hiding”, when the thieves, who had stolen the king’s jewels and were hiding them behind his house, had thought that the villager knew what they were up to. Scared, they made a deal with him and left all the jewels in exchange for an escape from the king’s wrath.

The memory of what had happened in the story tickled her and she stood there smiling and repeating, “What are you digging”, What are you digging?” and enjoying her game, as she had secretly decided to marry the king to get all the jewels. But then the teacher had come out looking for her, and had taken her inside.

It was Bilaspur, where the girl’s father, Ram Murti was the principal of the college. His initials with his family name had become his identity now. Full name was R. M. Sharma. And as per the social etiquette of addressing men by their family or surname, he was mostly known as Sharma Sahib or Mr Sharma, and Usha, the girl’s mother was known as Mrs Sharma, or Mem Sahib for those who worked at their house.

The girl, one of their three children, was the youngest child, and she had two older brothers, and they all lived in a big sprawling banglow with a fence all around. Beside the house was an old and deserted temple, where in spring, their hen would start to lay her eggs, without anyone knowing, and then after completely disappearing for a few days, she would come back as a victorious general, inflated with pride, with a small army of little yellow chickens marching behind her.

All the children would fall in love with the chickens, especially the girl’s younger brother who would almost start to live in the chicken house, and would come home with a cheeky smile, and a few little chickens stuffed in his coat pocket. The chickens however, would grow up quickly, and would start to disappear, one by one, a mystery which would not be solved, but the chowkidaar, the watch man, who lived just outside the banglow, would start singing joyful songs every evening, while a strange aroma would keep whiffing from his kitchen, for the next few weeks.

There was no electricity in the town, so evenings came quite quickly and everyone had to sit in one room, as there would be only one gas light burning in the house. The children always stayed in that room, where the light was, as anywhere else it was a bit scary. In the kitchen, especially, where the cook and the servant would be busy preparing dinner, if the girl or her younger brother were sent to get something, they would start crying. The hall way to the kitchen was quite dark. Anything could be lurking there. May be a ghost, a scorpion or a spider, they dreaded them all, as once when their mother’s two brothers, Beeru and Jay were visiting them, a spider had gone in Jay’s shirt. So scary!

But in the kitchen, it was even more scary, as the shadows in the flames from choolha, the wooden stove, would fall on the walls like dancing ghosts. Their older brother, however, was not scared and would be laughing and adding his own shadows on the walls, just to scare the little ones a bit more.

He could also whistle, and play a mouth organ, but that was not scary, it was beautiful. They could all sing along his tunes. He was their hero, and the little ones followed him around.

Bed time was after the 9.00 o’clock news, or even earlier for the children, so they would usually sleep for 12 to 14 hours. The mornings came late in that town, as the morning fog, drifting from the Satluj river, remained hovering like a pall between the town and the sun, not lifting till after 11 am.

The little girl slept with her mother in her parent’s room, but every morning she woke up in her own bed in children’s room. Her two brothers would be sleeping in their separate beds and she would smile and go back to sleep, knowing that the big bhabhoo, the kind genie, who only came at night to pick up lost children, had picked her up from her mother’s bed and dropped her in this room.

And this genie was not to be revealed till many years later, when the girl, at a friend’s tenth birthday party and a sleepover at her house, had woken up to realise that she was being carried home in her father’s arms. Her father would always bring her home, if she stayed at someone’s place, and she would grow up to this habit, always coming home after a party so she could wake up in her own bed.

Well, in Bilaspur the routine was quite simple, as everyone stayed outside, as much as they could during the day light, as there was not much to do inside the rooms. So after the school finished, and the lunch was over, the children would play outside. Their father would be at work, and mother would also be studying for her exams, in the mornings, but in the afternoon, she always had women visiting her, and they would all be sitting and knitting or peeling peas, in the sun. Mother loved these afternoons, but her study was important, and she would keep on it for many years to come, finishing her B.A. and then B.Ed, and finally an M.Ed, though much later in her life, thus starting a family tradition of keeping learning and, studying, with no age or time restrictions!

The kids would usually play at the front of the house in their own garden, especially when they had the chickens, or go to the Saandu maidan with their peon, to play with other children. Sometimes, in the evenings, they would go with their parents when they went for a walk. But the little girl would get tired, so on the way back, her father would be carrying her.

The town, surrounded by hills on three sides and facing the river on the fourth, was shaped like a bowl and in the middle was the Saandu maidan, the huge ground that was the focal point for the whole town. This is where each year, Bilaspur’s famous annual fair, Nalwadi used to be held. Nalwadi is an ancient fair, in which the trade of agricultural cattle, such as bulls, used to be the focus, with other things being secondary. With time, people started to associate entertainment, riding the famous rides, eating the local and novel delicacies, and singing, dancing and shopping with the fair.

Since their house was close to the Saandu ground, and her father enjoyed such things, the family must have gone to the mela, the fair, and the kids must have taken rides on the ferris wheel, and eaten jalebi, bought some trinkets, like plastic cars, aeroplanes, bows and arrows, and the little girl must have bought colourful glass bangles, as that is what you did in such fairs.

In Himachal, every town used to have an annual fair, usually related to religious reasons, or agricultural seasons, providing both business and pleasure opportunities to locals, as traders and entertainers from around the area, would come and sell their ware, whatever it might be.

The girl’s father loved to go to these places, and while her mother was a bit reluctant to go to crowded places, she would end up enjoying the day, as her husband, along with the children enjoyed such hustle and bustle a lot.

The kids will remember these occasions with fond memories of their father’s unexpected, and impromptu actions and feats, for example, ordering one kilo of jalebi to eat at the fair, participating in the eating competitions, or jumping into the wrestling competition, and once when the kids were a bit older, and in another city, the girl remembers when her father had suddenly jumped in a lake at the Riwalsar fair, in a jest, accepting the challenge to cross the lake in 20 minutes or something, giving the girl who was with him that day, almost an heart attack!

And just on the farthest point of the Saandu ground, at the bank of the river, there was the palace of the king of Bilaspur. It was a big white building with a shiny exterior that looked as if it was made of some silver lace. The king was a very modern and advanced person, with English tastes, as he had been to England for higher studies in his youth. Hence, in a very English style, he had built an entertainment complex including, a small cinema, and a club with badminton courts and a bar, just next to the palace. It was a place, where the girl might have gone with her parents, and her brothers, as her parents played badminton.

They must have also gone to the palace sometimes for sure, as the girl’s father being the principal of the only college in town, must have been invited by the king of the town, and Mr Sharma and Mrs Sharma along with other officers of the town, must have attended some of his famous parties. And a few times, the children must have also been invited at the palace, because, the girl remembers a room in the palace, a high ceiling room, with a huge golden framed painting on the wall, graceful horses standing in a herd, and a ceiling fan, not an electric fan, but of a different kind, made of some shiny white cloth, with frills and ropes, being pulled by an invisible person, and mesmerised, the girl might have fallen asleep on the sofa, as everything about that room remains dreamlike, and she sometimes thinks whether, she actually went there or was it just her imagination!

But one particular time, when she went to the king’s palace, that time something happened there, that she remembers that visit clearly, a sharp and a painful memory, as that day she discovered that those who lived in a palace were not always that good and shiny.

It was Holi, the festival of colours, which is celebrated just before the mild Spring gives way to its ferocious older sister, Summer in India. Holi must have been a Royal annual function celebrated at the palace. The queen of Bilaspur, known to invite her friends, women and girls of the town a few times of the year, used to invite some of these females to play Holi with her. And that year, her mother had received the invitation to play Holi at the palace. They all must have been quite excited, but what the little girl remembered of that day, is not that good.

She remembers, the queen, wearing a white sari with a tiara and a wide ear to ear smile on her face standing next to a big pond, filled with pink water.

The girl was wearing a white frock and a white ribbon in her hair. And she remembers that her mother, in her white sari and a white flower in her hair, looked more beautiful than the queen. They walked in holding hands, when suddenly her mother was dragged away and thrown into the water. The little girl stood crying for her mother while everyone around was clapping and laughing.

Later, after people had finished playing holi, there was more clapping, singing, some dancing, and a lot of laughter, as the guests and hosts stood around enjoying themselves, and talking loudly. They were served silver platters of attractive looking finger food, and frosty glasses of pink rooh afjah, the rose flavoured syrupy drink, her favourite, but she didn’t like anything that day, and she didn’t like their hosts. And that was the day she had decided not to marry a king, ever

Soon, it must have been summer, as she vaguely remembers her uncle, Braham Chacha, and his wife coming to visit them, and picnics they all went to. She especially remembers sitting near the river, on a really hot August day, enjoying an icy cold sweet mango taken from a basket, that had been kept dipped in the river for a few hours that morning.

The Satluj river, with its icy cold water, but its warm and generous nature, was just like a mother, and the town was indebted to it, for everything, as it gave livelihood to those who lived on this agricultural land. The little girl didn’t know it then, but one day the river’s water was going to rise really high to then fall on the town, taking the town in its bosom. Yes, that was going to happen one day, as the famous Hydroelectric dam, Bhakhra Dam, being built on the river, was going to divert its flow, capturing its waters to produce electricity, and create a majestic lake which would engulf the whole town one day!

Their Braham chacha, her uncle, who always carried a camera around his neck, loved taking pictures, something, for which when he used to study in Mandi, and was living with her parents, before the girl was even born, he used to get in trouble. But now, people asked him, actually requested him to take their photos. And he took beautiful pictures.

He captured the town in his pictures, its old temples, the white palace, the Saandu ground, and the mud brick houses with thatched roofs, and the rows of corns and pumpkins drying out in the sun, and the people of this ancient town, who would be looking for a new home, in another place, as their town was going to disappear soon. An old folk song from Bilaspur in which people of the town mourn their loss, paints their pain so vividly:

“Dubbi gaye ghar baar, ayi gaya paani, Chal meriye jinde nawin duniya basani”.

“Our houses have drowned, the water is everywhere, oh my love, lets go and find another world”!

A Bilaspuri folk song which tells the story of the loss when the town was submerged in water due to Bhakhra Dam.

The whole town would cease to exist, like the town of the sleeping beauty, not frozen in time, but submerged in water, and the memories of the time that the little girl had spent in that town, like the dormant childhood dreams, would wake up at strange moments.

Surfacing at the whiff of a familiar smell, a note of some music, a hint of some unspoken word, these memories, sometimes real, sometimes in her imagination would become the material for her stories. And, through these memories, Bilaspur would always remain in her imagination, alive, vibrant and beautiful, along with the stories of kings and thieves, and marching chickens, the dancing shadows, and the golden long winter afternoons.

With time and age, so much would be lost, and forgotten, just like that picture of the whole family which had been taken in the front veranda of their banglow in Bilaspur, and which had always stayed on their wall, displayed in all the houses that they would live in, but which would be lost in a house fire 13 years later, along with many such treasures of the family.

But Bilaspur would always remain engraved in her, and her brothers’ minds, like the picture of those bygone times, as this was the very first town in her memory, where life had begun for her, and this was also the town that she could never visit again!

No. 30.1 Education: a calling!

After the independence, and the partition of India, the ensuing circumstances forced many Indians to leave their homes. However, the idea of going to a completely unknown place to live, in a way also encouraged them to take themselves away from the known, but now lost homes, to new places in free India. Places where they could start building their lives, from a new beginning!

One of these places was Himachal, Known as Dev Bhoomi, or the land of gods. Located in the foothills of Himalaya, in the north of India, Himachal has lured many Indians to its beautiful cool weather offering a comfortable and a simple life style as a bonus. Its blue green mountains, and its green lush valleys crisscrossed by majestic, calm, deep ancient rivers, as well as its seasonal restless rivulets, create a wonderful picturesque scenery all around. And this was the place where Murti and Usha would finally move to make their home.

Destiny played its part in making this decision for them too, though they were both almost ready to make this move after their link with Kashmir had been broken and the Punjab, that Murti had known was no more.

The newly minted Himachal was an amalgamation of a few small princely states in the hilly area which had acceded to India. Situated in north India, the state had only come into existence on 15th April 1948. Before independence, this part of India had been neglected by governments, in terms of public services and education, as a result, Himachal was lagging behind its neighbouring states. But once it came to existence, as a state, or a union territory at that time, it was ready to catch up with the rest of India. Since, education is most important for any progress to be made, having a higher education institute in the state was crucial to provide higher education locally. The aim was to provide an opportunity to students to study further in Himachal only, so they didn’t need to travel interstate after finishing school, as had been the case.

So the very first degree college in Himachal was opened in 1948, in the Mandi district. The King of Mandi, it is said, had been the force behind it, and he even gave his personal land for its building. Over the years, many other districts followed suit, where degree colleges as well as teacher training colleges were to be opened, creating teaching and learning opportunities for those who were keen to move from one place to another for their calling.

As it so happened, in 1950, Murti had gone to Simla, which though situated in Himachal was still a part of Punjab at that time. Simla known as Shimla is now the present day capital of Himachal Pradesh. In summer, as a legacy of the British Raj, when it used to be the summer capital of India, many conferences, meetings, and seminars for Punjab offices, and Punjab university affiliated colleges were held there.

With a severe winter and a heavy monsoon season, its mild summer has always been a festive time for Simla. The mall road, littered with small boutique shops, restaurants, and clubs, and a coffee house, is the most essential promenade for all Simlavies, both the tourists and the locals. Every afternoon, people pour out of their homes, and offices, making a bee line towards the scandal point. After paying their homage to the great freedom fighter, Lala Lajpat Rai’s statue at the meeting point of the mall and the ridge, they go on their regular stroll and restaurant crawl for the evening, meeting friends, and eyeing strangers, amidst wanted, unwanted, expected and unexpected encounters.

Well, in late summer of that year, Murti had gone to attend a week long conference to Simla, with some of his colleagues, while Usha was visiting her parents, Mataji and Pitai in Muktser. On the very first day, after the conference, they all went to the mall road for a customary walk and talk over a cup of coffee at the coffee house. One of his colleagues had found out that recruitment for lecturers to teach in the recently opened government degree college in Mandi, was going on, and the interviews would be conducted in Simla that very week.

Every youngster in their group became excited by this news as it was a great opportunity to get a government job, something coveted by all Indians at that time. Most Indians wanted to work in a government institute, rather than in the private sector, a choice, that has gone 180 degrees in the opposite direction now!

Finding the idea of going to live in Himachal very attractive, on top of getting a government job, which was getting a lot more competitive in Punjab, Murti didn’t waste any time. That very night, he wrote an application for the position of a lecturer in English, and delivered it to the UPSC office in the morning. On the third day of the conference, he received a call to come for an interview, in which he was offered the job, to teach English at the college in Mandi.

Sending a telegram to Usha to come back immediately, Murti went back to Khanna, where he would need to give his notice to resign from his job, and pack up for the big move. And that is how, Murti and Usha, along with their son, moved to Himachal by the end of that year, and that is where they would live all their working lives. This is where they would grow and flourish, raise their three children, and reach many milestones. Their second son was born after their move to Himachal, though, Usha had gone to her parent’s place in Muktsar for the birth, but their third child, their daughter, was actually born in Himachal, in Mandi itself.

In his long and lustrous career in Himachal education, Murti would move around Himachal, teaching in many colleges, and in 1957, just seven years since he had come to Himachal, and when he was not even 40, he would become the principal of one of these colleges. Moving from one place to another, from one college to another, staying for one, two or at the most three years in different towns, in Auhar (Aur), Old Bilaspur, New Bilaspur, Solan, Nahan, Una, Shimla, Murti was sometimes involved in the opening of a college, and then becoming the first principal of that college. He would finally be involved in the opening of the Himachal Pradesh University in 1970, and would become its first registrar.

Thus, Murti, along with a few others, had become a pioneer in this move to teach and live in Himachal. Many young men, especially from Punjab and UP, would follow his lead to take this opportunity to build their career in Himachal education. One particular young man, Handa, who had actually filled in Murti’s vacant position in Khanna college in Punjab after Murti had left Khanna, ‘followed’ Murti to Mandi. They became colleagues and then friends, and a long trail of such incidents for more than three decades, in which, one would follow the other all over Himachal, would finally connect them into a complex relationship through their careers, families, and their children. Another story for a later time!

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